Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Best Western Lord Manaus was chosen by Sheena, our travel agent. She chose this hotel because, she said it was ‘very convenient and comfortable’. Both and Sue and I found her assessment to be correct. Located close to the city center it had a nice, spacious double room for us with radio, TV, air conditioning, and the works. The room also included an excellent buffet breakfast, after which we couldn't complain!

The best thing about the hotel, apart from its regular amenities, was its proximity to the Opera House. The magnificent edifice that reflects culture. We saw here French chandeliers and candelabras, Italian statues and busts, English staircases of wrought iron, etc. All of it, a picture of splendor and magnificence. The Opera House has had its share of ups and downs, though. Launched amidst much fanfare in 1896, it was mainly supported by the money that the rubber industry in Manaus was spinning.

But by the early 1900s, as Asian competition began sweeping it aside, the fortunes of this grand house of culture plummeted. I was happy to see, though, that there has been some revival of the arts, particularly theatre here. On the evening of our visit we were treated to an opera based on Cinderella's story in Portuguese!

The next day being a Sunday we had a ball shopping at the fair organized inside the town's city hall. Here we got some real bargains on Brazilian artifacts and jewelry. We also saw plenty of hammocks, all richly-colored, on display but we bought none. During our two-day trip to Manaus we kept strictly to the town area which, we'd been told, was safe. We didn't venture into any of the slums, also called favalas, where crime runs high. People live close together in hutments with poor lighting and sanitation. In every other way, our Manaus trip was perfect.

Kampala: Haunting specters, charming smiles

luxury hotelThe specter of Idi Amin’s dictatorial regime kept looming as Sue and I alighted at the Entebbe Airport, the site of a dramatic hostage rescue operation by Israeli forces so many years ago. I half-shuddered as I made my way to the taxi stand to get to Kampala from Entebbe. Sue, who was silent up to this point, must have been mulling over the same things. By and by, however, we began to lose our edginess as the warmth of the place; the people reached out and clinched us with calming reassurance. We were propositioned by several motorcycle taxi drivers. These motorcycle taxis are called boda bodas and look extremely dangerous. So we simply shook our heads in polite refusal.

We finally booked a taxi to take us to the hotel Sheena had booked for us, the Kampala Sheraton Hotel. As the towers of the hotel loomed up in the horizon both Sue and I felt immediately reassured. Set in a sultry, seductive tropical background it is an oasis – mainly owing to its magnificent gardens – inside a bustling city. The hotel has cafes, bars, a beauty salon, in fact the works.

We had a late lunch and being a tad too tired, went off to sleep. In the evening Sue and I went across to the Rock Garden, a rather cool night club in the midst of the city. We weren’t charged anything to be admitted and had some great Tusker beer while listening to some rollicking numbers mostly from Uganda and India. We were also treated to a lot of ABBA hits, a thing that bombards your senses wherever you, we realized. The country appears to be quite ABBA-struck.

The next morning we woke up early and stepped out of the hotel and could help marveling at the landscape that Kampala offers. Set out on seven hills, it is the site of the verdant and resplendent views I have seen during my travels. We took a stroll up to the Naksero Market with a zesty medley of shops and restaurants. Such brilliant colors and such bright smiles! I felt sorry when it was time to leave.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Lago de Atitlan: Guatemalan beauty spot



A perfect place to chill out in,” is how Sheena had described Lago de Atitlan. And I cannot agree more. Sue and I stayed at this hotel called Lomas de Tzununa during the entire duration of our stay. From the hotel’s private dock we had to clamber up some three hundred-odd steps and it was beautiful all the way. The food too, was great. We had fish that appeared to have just caught from the lake and cooked, it tasted so fresh!

The next day we drove down with some friends, also guests of the hotel, to a village called Santa Cruz parts of which, we discovered, did not have any electricity. This picturesque village is located at an altitude and we had a pretty steep climb uphill. The seaside and the beach at Santa Cruz is pretty nice. We saw quite a few boats departing from the sea shores for the main village Panajachel.

The saddest feature about this lovely Guatemalan town is the poverty; there are vast Mayan populaces existing within the community with little to survive on, it’s heart-rending. The next day Sue and I decided to go shopping at this place called Panajachel. We loved the colorful markets laid out in the main street. We bought some fabrics with traditional Guatemalan motifs.

I also liked the hand-carved flutes and hand-woven scarves and rugs prepared by the Mayans with their symbols and motifs beautifully embossed. Really quite charming. Feeling hungry we looked around for a nice café or restaurant. We saw our friends – the same ones from the hotel – sampling some marinated seafood, raw I believe, called ceviche. They appeared to love it although I didn’t much feel like tasting raw stuff. So we had tacos, spaghetti and some local beer at a wayside stall. Rather nice.

Thursday, October 22, 2009

Moeciu de Sus: Pastorally yours

Miles upon miles of pastoral landscape is what Sue and I came across while aking our way towards Moeciu de Sus, a lovely Romanian hamlet- so friends had mentioned to us. Taking the Transfagarsan was hardly the best idea, the way being too long , but neither Sue nor I had issues with driving stretches of beautiful road under a bright mauve sky. Once in a while an odd horse cart would draw up close and the farmer seated atop would cheerily wave at us. We were met by several hitch-hikers on the way. We decided not to stop for anyone initially.

But then we saw two women all by themselves and I pulled over at Sue’s request. Mother and daughter, their names were Gina and Sophia. They didn’t speak a word of English and we knew no Romanian but we still managed to communicate courtesy of miming. We saw an assortment of cattle on the roads, especially cows. At one point I had to stop and let a gaggle of geese cross over. Surrounded by such bucolic wonder, who could complain?

It was Sue who took the wheel by the time we pulled up at the guest house our travel agent Sheena had fixed for us, the Casa Dragoslovean. “Sounds dragon-ish, doesn’t it?” Sue had exclaimed before setting off. Hardly, was our collective verdict on beholding it. The interiors are even prettier; very comfortable and inviting. What I really liked about the place was the food prepared entirely from local produce. Much of it is grown in the kitchen garden and simply delicious for that reason.

There is a strange calm energy about this Romanian village that makes its visitors feel rejuvenated and relaxed akin to the feeling of having just woken from a deep sleep. Stepping out of the guest house Sue and I were content to simply walking around, soaking in the pastoral landscape with its story-book scenery. We also watched the hay stacking and dairying activities. Among the places I absolutely recommend is a village called Bran which is pretty much next door to Moeciu de Sus and, like the latter, breathtakingly beautiful with little hills and waterfalls. A memorable vacation spot, certainly.

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Bucharest: Some kind of mix



Sue found it charming while I was slightly uneasy around the uncompromising grey buildings, old remnants of communism… that’s right, the place I am referring is the Romanian capital, Bucharest. A mix of trendy, traditional, and drab is what we got here on our last visit. Sheena, our travel agent, had us booked in at the Ramada Majestic Bucharest Hotel. With its 111 guest rooms, beauty salon, large conference center., fitness center, and swimming pool, it is truly majestic with a great trendy façade. Some tourists staying here mentioned that the Ramada had the cleanest swimming pool in Bucharest.

One of our friends traveling with us on business dropped us off at the Revolution Square on the afternoon of our arrival. He dropped us right opposite the Administrative Complex, also referred to as the Senate. Constructed in 1940, it used to be the headquarters of the Communist Party and the site of the Romanian Revolution of 1989. From where we stood we were able to see the spot from where the infamous dictator Ceausescu relayed his last speech before departing in his helicopter only to be captured and shot a few hours later. Quite chilling.

We also saw the Parliament Palace,a mammoth building and second only to the Pentagon in size. It was the last building to be built under Communist dictatorship. Started sometime in the 1980s, the colossus was finished only in 1997, well after the death of its corrupt owner. Over 330,000 square this giant has 12 floors with rooms that are 84 meters high.

The interiors are characterized by luxury that is vulgar to behold. Both sue and I exited the place with double quickness. From the Parliament Palace we walked down to the Unirii Avenue towards the Antim Monastery, a lovely tribute to the ruler of that name. Such a relief after those concrete communist buildings we had just passed. Well, that’s essentially Bucharest, a mix that can get uncomfortable at times.

Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Monterey: A place to fall for

Monterey
Sue wanted to visit California this time round. “A nice Spanish coastal city should be just fine,” she had said with a toss her curls. So we chose Monterey. This was our second visit to San Francisco and we were both having a gala time but she wanted something smaller, “more intimate, if you know what I mean.” So we drove down some 115 miles south to this town that Steinbeck made so popular in his novels. Sue, who happens to be the well-read one, informed me that the city was founded by Spanish soldiers and missionaries and was the capital Alta California belonging to Mexican territory.

The US seized the area in 1846 and developed it into a fishing port. Today, Monterey has a large population of Italian as well as Chinese immigrants. Thanks to its year-round temperate climate it attracts tourists by the droves. So much for somewhere smaller and “more intimate”! We saw this motel called Ramada Limited Monterey next to the highway and drove up. Luckily they had a couple of rooms vacant. For $73 per night we checked into rather large and comfortable guest room with a king-sized bed, bath with clean and crisp linen.

There was cable TV in the room, and an ironing board, etc and the bathroom had a hairdryer. Pretty neat. We also liked the heated swimming pool and Jacuzzi. It was getting late so we slept in early after a long and tiring drive. The next morning we awoke at the crack of dawn and drove down a little further south to view the Mc Way Waterfalls about which we had heard so much. ‘Spectacular’ is the word that comes to mind. This area is called the Big Sur and is famous for its mountainous frothy falls that simply drop into the ocean.

The area is also home to lovely parks like the Los Padres National Forest and Pfeiffer State Park. We didn’t stop at any but were simply content to drive around the highway next to the Saint Lucia Mountains. The next day we went to see the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the largest in the world. Interesting, but nothing to beat the waterfalls.

Thursday, October 8, 2009

Jericoacoara: A must visit village town

beach
While visiting Jericoacoara in Brazil we stayed at this place called Pousada Ponta Mar Jeri, a family-owned establishment. A bed and breakfast joint, actually, its rooms are quite nice- spacious and clean with air-conditioning. That is, our room had air-conditioning while quite a few others had fans. There is also a swimming pool that Sue took advantage of during much of our stay. The lady running the place, Dona Rosa, baked us a lovely banana cake on the day of our arrival. Her husband, Daniel, offers buggy rides to several destinations of tourist interest.

We took a walk in the village resembling an extended beach. It only has five streets, it appears. But it is well-stacked with some rather swanky eateries and bars. Not bad for a rural set up, we reckoned. We’d started out early and saw some fishermen making their way towards the sea with their nets, chatting away merrily. Around noon it became rather hot so we went looking for a café.

At Rua Principal we came across this rather chic eatery called Espaco Aberto which, incidentally, I had heard a great deal about. The staff is friendly and the service is well-oiled and efficient. Both Sue and I tried out a number of shrimps and fishes doused in the most exotic Brazilian sauces. The restaurant’s Hawaiian-styled fish is a dish worth trying. Peixe Ao Molho Verde is what its called, I believe.

For souvenir shopping Daniel told us that the shops next to the beach were our best bet. We stopped by at this shop called Jeri Arte which is not far from Rua Principal. What amazing ceramics! We bought cups, saucers, salvers and lamps; all beautifully crafted and designed.

The next morning Daniel took us buggy-riding towards the icon of this village-town, the Pedra Furada or Arched Rock. This a rock, ten meters in height, and naturally sculpted by sea waves. A must visit!

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Flatt: Ideal vacation village




Visiting Flatt was Sue’s idea. She so desperately wanted to vacation in Bermuda that I had no choice but to agree. There are no hotels in the Flatt village so we got Sheena to book a reservation for us at one of the best beach resorts, Ramada Plaza Nags Head Beach situated on the Kill Devil Hills in North Carolina.

The next morning we went to visit the Bermuda Aquarium Museum set up by the Bermuda Government. We saw and were thoroughly charmed by the chow, a seabird that would have become extinct but for the efforts of the museum authorities. We also other species like the Whistling Frog, the Beautiful Eastern Blue Bird, and the Bermuda Cedar.

The Aquarium houses over 200 types of fishes, seals, and marine turtles. The aquarium, like the zoo, is a recent addition.

At the zoo we saw Galapagos tortoises, the largest living samples of their species with longevity of 100 to 150 years. Of the original twelve species there are only ten left in the world today. Sue had seen these giant tortoises at Charles Darwin Foundation in Ecuador. For me, this was the first time. And I was quite daunted by their gigantesque appearance.
Wandering around the village we saw these quaint little pink buses which also serve as school buses. Drivers of these buses also don the roles of mentors, we discovered. They tend to discipline these youngsters and if anyone is found loitering around, he or she is yanked back into the bus firmly but kindly. You also need to be properly dressed before getting: bikinis and shorts are a definite no-no. The drivers also make sure that everybody is seated before taking off.

One night during our stay we ordered a typical Bermudian pizza for $14 with hamburgers, cheese, and onions from a Four Star Pizza store on North Shore Road of the village. Pretty good and also rather fresh.
For a relaxed, laid-back holiday Flatt is ideal.

Unforgettable Positano




Looking at the Il San Pietro di Positano one of the world’s best luxury hotels, from afar Sue let out a gasp. The hotel is positioned over a cliff and molded according to its contours. “Did you know,” Sue exclaimed, “it is counted as amongst the top ten hotels in the world?” I could well believe her, who’s usually well up on facts and trivia.

The porter wheeled our luggage into the elevator at the base of hotel opposite which is an unpretentious-looking church. The elevator let us out into the main lobby. Once there, we held our breath once again. It is one the largest and the most beautiful lobbies I have ever seen. Adorned by paintings and sculptures it runs into a terrace with the most exotic foliage. The first impression was certainly a charming one.

Since our plane had been delayed we had a quiet dinner inside our hotel room and turned in early. The next day Sue wanted to visit the famous Isle of Capri which, thanks to our travel agent Sheena, had been booked beforehand. No last-minute bookings here, we were told. Later I was to thank her profusely over the telephone.

The turquoise waters around this bejeweled piece of land are crystal clear; we were able to see the rich sea-bed beneath as though watching through a glass. We couldn’t miss seeing the Blue Grotto, could we? Passing through the cave we were struck by the rich blue tints of the waters, the silvery sheen of the light. The experience was sheer heaven and a little difficult to put into words. It was 4 pm when we returned to Positano. Both Sue and I were too overwhelmed by what we’d seen to be able to speak.

On our last morning we traversed the city on foot which, we discovered, is so easy thanks to little stairs and steps leading up and down the city. That too, was an experience in itself- quite unforgettable.

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Sintra: Quaint and pretty




“Pretty unique,” Sue said as we strolled up and down the Palacio National. She was pointing towards the chimneys which, I agree, appear pretty unique to the urban cape of the Portuguese city of Sintra. We were standing close to the kitchen area of the palace which was basically an enclosed corridor with rows of fireplaces- ancient cooking ranges. Very quaint. We also saw these gigantic racks with large utensils that were once utilized for preparing royal dishes.

Going through the 14th century palace I was particularly enamored with the Royal Court of Arms with its blue and white tiled walls. Sue, on the other hand, liked the long Swans’ Hall containing ceiling panels painted with – you guessed right – swans.

It was lunchtime by the time we repaired to our hotel in the more ancient part of the city. The Lawrence S Hotel that Sheena had booked for us is one of the prettiest and oldest hotels and is also one of the world’s best luxury hotels in the Iberian Peninsula. An ancient manor house of the 18th century it has been beautifully restored to keep up with contemporary times. The reception, bar, and lounge areas are well-designed and spacious.

Sue wanted to go out souvenir shopping in the evening. The concierge as well as hotel guests had mentioned that taking a walk in the old part of the city would prove to be very fruitful, and it did! Sintra is choc-a-bloc with quaint shops and outlets with the greatest local artwork and craft. Little alleys, nooks and corners had some amazing pieces of crockery, ceramics, tiles, even fabrics. Sue bought some lovely embroidered stuff and pieces of pottery.

Not wanting to eat at the hotel particularly we drove out to this place called Galamares not too far from the main town. I would recommend its services, ambience and food any day. Do try their duck rice, its fantastic!

Thursday, September 17, 2009

Kazakhstan: A place of scenic charm and culture




Some friends who’d traveled to Kazakhstan a year ago had recommended Almaty to us. Sue, the culture buff and ever so erudite, had immediately looked up the encyclopedia and the net to inform me, in that special knowledgeable way she has, that Almaty was not only the cultural centre of central Asia – a big plus as far as she is concerned – but also a major financial hub, a former capital of Kazakhstan and continues to be its largest city. I also learnt that it figures amongst the top 50 most expensive cities in the world. Certainly not the most comforting of thoughts, I joked to her!

Flying from London we changed planes at Abu Dhabi and landed at Almaty courtesy of Etihad Airways.

A taxi took us to one of the best luxury hotels, Ambassador Hotel at $25. We later realized, to our dismay, that the hotel could have arranged a free pick-up for us had we requested it. The Ambassador is very comfortable with a great location. It is also quite business-like with a large conference hall, lobby bar, and business center.

The next morning we went to meet Sofia and her husband Kamal, a couple we’d met in Boston, who lived at the end of a rather charming street called Dostyk Avenue. At their insistence we went to explore the Panfilov Park practically next door to where they live. “You must visit the Glory Monument,” Sofia had said over coffee and muffins to us.
She was right; we loved it. The sculptures of the soldiers who gave up their lives in defense of Moscow during the Great Patriotic War of the 1940s are terrifically executed and very dramatic. I found the Glory Memorial surrounding the Eternal Flame and the sculpture of the soldier leading the horses of his slain friends very touching.

Feeling somber we drove up to the Auezov Drama Theatre where nothing was on, yet. Kamal wanted to go to a place called Dastarkhan for “some amazing Kazakh food.” But I, who was getting mesmerized by the snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan Mountains, simply pulled up a chair at this simple meal kiosk drinking in the view. Lovely!

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Bhutan: Royally hospitable




The best way to get to Bhutan, we had been told, was through India. This Shangri-La of the East is a tight-lipped land-locked Himalayan Lilliput, home to extraordinary sights and peaceful serenity. The original name of this petite country is ‘Druk Yul’ which translates to the ‘Land of the Peaceful Thunder Dragon’. It was Marco Polo who named it ‘Bootan’ during his famed peregrinations. It was only in the early 70s that the cloistered country threw open its doors to foreigners and visitors. And a good thing too, as Sue and I discovered.

Traveling to Bhutan was an impulsive decision on Sue’s part who wanted to see part of the Himalayas and the lovely Buddhist monasteries, the vaunted boast of this near-hidden land. We were still in Delhi where we contacted a tour agent who arranged our visas for us (Indian nationals do not require them, we learnt) which were stamped in Thimpu, the capital of the country. For $ 474 (per head) the tour operators booked us seats with Druk Air and we landed at the Paro International Airport. The drive up to the hotel was scenic and beautiful and it got quite dark by the time our friendly cab driver drove us to this place called the Kichu Resort, which is one of the world’s best resorts. We were both charmed by the hospitality and warmth of the hotel staff that immediately welcomed us with hot tea and snacks.

The next morning we set off for Thimpu. Another scenic drive that drove our senses wild. The Yeezdin Guest House booked by our agent is centrally located and very large. While the city is certainly picturesque with some really beautiful spots we could see large-scale construction taking place almost everywhere. For a capital city it is really small but efficiently run.

Like the Indians the Bhutanese too love their food hot and spicy as we discovered when we stopped by at a place called Bhutan Kitchen. I liked the cheese-baked dishes, though. I also liked their local beer called Arrakh. Tastes mild but what a bite!

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Anchorage: a unique Alaskan adventure




The last time Sue and I had been to Alaska we had simply rushed through Anchorage in our bid to explore the Great Land and its bounties. This time, visiting this city – laughingly referred to as Los Anchorage by many – was my idea, not Sue’s. Upon the advice of friends I had even gone ahead and booked the Econo Lodge Hotel, one of the world’s best hotels.The hotel has a free shuttle and we landed safe and sound at this rather old little inn with this rather old-world, comfy atmosphere.

The next day we put on our snow shoes and went off to this nice little ski resort called Alpenglow in the Chugach Mountains. Alpenglow being a volunteer-run resort, it doesn’t rent out gear and equipment. Just as well we had our own gear with us. After some heady skiing near-accidents we headed down a trail called Flattop. Somebody had told us back at the Lodge that it was the most popular trail in Anchorage and no wonder. Walking along it we saw some great views of Cook Inlet and the surrounding hills.

That night we decided to pass the diner at the Lodge in favor of this homely, cozy little place called Gwennies. I loved the soup, bread and sausage. They were also serving reindeer sausage which, frankly, I did not care to try.

The next morning Sue wanted to shop around for some gifts and souvenirs. Being a touristy sort of place Anchorage is choc-a-bloc with outlets catering to the needs of tourists. We settled for a rather quaint little place called Oomingmak: The Qiviut Shop. And am I glad we did. Run by Max Ox Producers Cooperative this store is a treasure trove of handmade scarves, caps, stoles, etc. The texture has to be seen – sorry, felt – to be believed. The items are knitted out of the Arctic Musk Ox wool, which is much finer than sheep’s wool and pretty steep price-wise.

This Alaskan adventure has been a truly unique one.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Abu Simbel: A temple village




Sue was still yawning inside the hotel room. Sheena, my travel agent, had booked for us the Nobaleh Ramsis, one of the world best hotels, which is pretty close to all the museums and historical sites.

We had to catch the plane from Cairo at 5.30 am. This meant no one had slept throughout the night. Add to that the revelry and the racket Sue’s cousins were making in the next room. Our first day in Abu Simbel, for the most part, was spent sleeping. We had considered driving in from Aswan but were told about the impossibility of getting in that way. “Security reasons,” a policeman in Cairo had said. We did see quite a few tourists getting off a bus, though.

Well meaning friends had advised us about acquiring enough information about the ancient exotic city – actually a village – situated in the north of the Sudanese border in Egypt as ‘you won’t even find the time to see it all.’ Sue, being the more erudite of us two, had done most of the reading. It was she who told me that the city had been rescued from the rising fury of Lake Nasser by the United Nations. But I was mainly interested in the temples dedicated to Rameses II, the Great.

The next morning we set off accompanied by a guide to explore the village hillside next to the Nile. Our guide directed us towards the magnificent temple of Rameses II, the Great. The temple, he told us in his halting English, had been reconstructed brick by brick when the flood waters had entered it, and relocated atop the hill. The four statues of the great Pharaoh are marvelous pieces of art, absolutely awesome. They face a man-made mountain that resembles a giant rock.

Abu Simbel, we noticed, was bereft of cosmopolitan life; there seems to be no place to eat out. So we ate at the Nobaleh Ramsis Hotel. A nice way to end a rather eventful day, say what?

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Ulaanbaatar: Where drab becomes pretty




The first impression of the capital city of Mongolia is hardly the best. Sue summed it up with one word, ‘drab’. We had caught the train from Beijing which is so richly beautiful and thriving and this was a let down. Let down? Well, not really. For the city began to grow on us pretty soon, despite the biting cold and the miserable ambience. Sue had bought a map at the Mongolian Government Map shop located near the State Department Store. Not knowing the local language, Sue said, the map was going to fill in some ‘vital knowledge gaps’.

We took up accommodation at this rather cute place called Gana’s Guesthouse which is not too far from the railway station. It was better than staying at a ‘ger’ or a traditional tent or a dorm. We had a spacious double room to ourselves with toilet and shower. Very clean and comfortable. It was at night that we felt the bite of chill, ooooh! But the warmth of the staff more than made up for the chill. They were even kind enough to help us organize our tours for us. Ulaanbaatar being a small town we were able to undertake most of our excursions on foot. Our first visit was to the post office, a beautiful building with a lofty tower touching the clouds in one corner of the famous Sukhbaatar Square. We wanted to send off some postcards to friends and family and we found such a wide range of stamps and postcards that it boggled our minds!

We also took a tour of the National History Museum near the square which was quite informative. I particularly liked the huge skeleton of a dinosaur.

To try authentic Chinese food we went up to the Ulaanbaatar Hotel not too far from the Drama Theater. Both Sue and I loved the pineapple chicken with steamed noodles and rice. A ‘must try’ surely.

Monday, August 31, 2009

Gettysburg: Where the old meets the new




Honestly speaking, I can see what makes Pennsylvanians so proud of this tiny little town-let. For here is an exotic confluence of history and scenic beauty. Tucked away rather serenely in the Hills of Adams County it is somewhat difficult to imagine it was once the site of one of the bloodiest battles in history. Driving along a long stretch of pictorial farmland along the Old Lincoln Highway on a lovely spring morning was a treat in itself. We saw monuments and statues arrayed all across the highway in a tribute to the soldiers and generals who fought in the battle of 1863.
Driving up to Gettysburg-Day Inn we saw the denizens darting in and out of their quaint abodes in the costumes of the 1860s. A little too good to be true, we thought. In earlier times the place was known as Marsh Creek. The term Gettysburg came about thanks to an early American settler who launched a tavern in the late 1700s.
Among the things that Sue and I liked in this quaint, curious little town was the 44th and 12th NY Infantry Monument in a locality called Little Round Top. The view on top is absolutely marvelous.
We also visited the famous site at the National Cemetery where the late President Lincoln delivered his renowned Gettysburg Address in November 1863. The grass under our feet was as soft as felt. It felt good taking a stroll around the cemetery.
We next visited the Battle Theatre showcasing a mini battlefield. The multi-media show presenting the battle is most interesting to behold. Don’t miss it if you can.
We drove down to the downtown area for a bite and on a whim chose the most expensive restaurant- Dobbin House. I loved it because the food was ‘home-made’. The sandwiches and the vegetable entrees tasted heavenly to our ravenous tongues. The restaurant décor has some great retro touches harking back to the 1700s. The menu and the music is especially designed to take you back in time.
A great place for a weekend. Check it out if you can.

Saturday, August 29, 2009

Blois: tres charmante




“Look!” Sue pointed from the window of the aircraft circling over the little French town. I craned my neck to look at the white houses with crimson chimneys. I could also see a cathedral atop a hill. Blois had made a charming first impression.

We were driven to the Cote Loire – Auberge Ligerienne, a rather sprawling mansion with a lot of character. It does not look like a hotel per se but reeks of atmosphere. I quite liked it actually.

That evening we took a stroll around the Loire River which was in state of semi-spate. From its banks we could see its landmark bridge constructed in mid 18th century by the renowned French architect Jacques Gabriel. Quite impressive, both Sue and I felt.
The next morning we went to see the Chateau de Blois in the Loire Valley. An exotic residence to ancient French royalty, it was also visited by Joan of Arc in 1429 who was blessed by the Archbishop of Reims before she left for Orleans with her army to battle the English. I loved the castle’s spiral staircase, the Louis XII wing along with its impressive façade, and the Chambre du Roi.

Feeling peckish after our excursions we stopped by at this French restaurant called Le Triboulet next to the Château de Blois. The décor is traditionally French and very cheerful. Sue couldn’t stop raving about the duck sausages or andouilletes de canard (didn’t try them myself) while both of us loved the fresh seasonal river fish preparation and the dessert, cooked prunes doused in red wine. Sue also ordered their plateau de fromages.

We also visited the Musée de l’Objet with its unique architecture housing some great sculptures and artworks. Wandering around the streets flanking the edifice felt great too as we got to see such marvelous facades and houses constructed partly out of timber.
We had to catch a flight in the evening. The holiday was over too soon for me.

Wednesday, August 26, 2009

Gafsa: Underrated Paradise




Gafsa has to be one of the best kept secrets of the African continent. Most people tend to simply pass it over in favor of other ‘exotic’ destinations like Tozeur or Douz. True it is cities that appears to be crumbling and needs to be promoted more aggressively but it have some really endearing spots.

Wandering around the Kasbah area and going past its butterscotch walls we could see the devastation it had witnessed thanks to World War II. Like a sturdy sentinel, though, it stands tall and proud guarding the town. Situated on an oasis the Kasbah looks picture perfect. On the brink of an oasis is a little café where we had sipped hot coffee and snacked on muffins.

The Medina in Gafsa was every bit as interesting as the one in Marrakesh although smaller. Both Sue and I got lost a couple of times there!. A nice old man pointed the way out. We saw some really beautiful mosques on the way; I was especially impressed with the architecture of the Great Mosque which, I understand, enjoys pride of place in the Medina.

Another sight that impressed me – and Sue – greatly was the Roman pools housed in a rather ornate square. They reminded me of the Mughaloid hammams in Delhi and Fatehpur Sikri in India. Sue, who can never resist a chance to swim, dived right in. “It is so warm and pleasant!” she urged me to join her, an offer I smilingly declined.
For lunch we made our way back to the Kasbah towards the edge of the oasis. We noticed that most restaurants in Gafsa are for ‘men only’. Rather quaint in this day and age.
On our way back we passed by Place 7 Novembre, a historic square in one of the town’s main streets.

We also did some shopping for some delicacies at Gafsa’s main market reeking with exotics aromas and scents. We bought these yummy local cakes and later gorged on them. This tiny paradisiacal oasis is clearly underrated.

Kericho: green charm




Whatever one may say about Kenya, both Sue and I loved Kericho, the tea heartland of the country. The hotel we were staying in was seedy, rundown and a real disappointment. But we couldn’t say the same about the town per se. Situated in the wet highlands of the Rift Valley, it is a green-laden paradise. That green has a rather unique appeal to the eyes, a translucent kind of emerald, if you know what I mean.

Sue, my mobile chatterbox encyclopedic friend and alter ego, had mentioned that the tea town was christened after a brave Masai chief who was slain by the Gusii tribe during the 18th century. She had also let on that next to India and Sri Lanka, Kenya happens to be the largest tea grower. And we were here, right inside the tea heartland of Africa surrounded by a vast mossy green carpet as far as the eye could see.

We started out early the next morning to go to the Ruma National Park. Our hotel had arranged for a jalopy and a driver to take us there and had even packed some sandwiches and tea in a flask for us (earning some redemption in our eyes). We went through a couple of fishing villages going past some beautiful coastlines. The park is picturesque and beautiful like most parks but what I admired most was the numerous species of antelopes, particularly the Oribi (among the smallest in the antelope family) we got to see. We also saw some rare birds like the Blue Swallow, Fish Eagle, and White Egret.

The next day being a Saturday we went to a disco at the one of the world’s best hotels, Mid-West Hotel. We first went to the bar at a place called Urwa Inn where there are some nice pool tables and relatively inexpensive beers. Both Sue and I let our hair down and danced all practically night. The discotheque at the Mid-West Hotel is pretty safe compared to quite a few others.
The emerald greenery of the town certainly held us spellbound over that one weekend.

Monday, August 24, 2009

Lanzarote: Windy and picturesque




It was windy when we landed in Lanzarote, the furthest of the Canary Islands. We pulled our jackets about close as we waited for the bus to take us to the center of capital Arrecife. We got off in the town square and made our way wheeling our luggage behind us. We had expected a small establishment but to our surprise the Lancelot Hotel is pretty large and overwhelming and is also one of the luxury beach hotels commanding a gorgeous seaside view.

I loved the spacious room they provided us with along with TV, mini-bar, telephone and an in-room safe. We had lunch at the large restaurant there after freshening up. Being tired we decided to rest a little. It was slightly late by the time our tiredness wore off. I was all game for winding up the evening at the hotel bar which appeared pretty decent to me. But Sue insisted on going out. She had made friends with Percy – another hotel guest – and his girlfriend Lisa who wanted to hang out at this place called Bar Hook at Costa Teguise. They had rented a car so off we went for a swig of cocktails at Bar Hook. The ambience was quite nice despite the sharp prices. The size of cocktails was pretty generous which were poured out in front of our eyes.

The next morning we drove through the wind along the picturesque coastline till we hit upon the Los Pocillos beach which in Spanish translates to ‘the puddle’. This is a curious quirk of nature as the puddle manages to run off into the ocean. We saw some kids shrieking with delight as they splashed about in it.

There is one site in Lanzarote you must absolutely not miss. This is the island of Mirador del Rio. Standing at one corner of Lanzarote we couldn’t take our eyes off the heavenly ground-piece, beautified further by the artist Cesar Manrique. Two domes roofed in and a restaurant contained within an artificially created mountain cavity make it look ravishing.
Other places we liked were the cactus gardens and the Timanfaya National Park.
A great place to visit, surely.