Wednesday, October 28, 2009

Best Western Lord Manaus was chosen by Sheena, our travel agent. She chose this hotel because, she said it was ‘very convenient and comfortable’. Both and Sue and I found her assessment to be correct. Located close to the city center it had a nice, spacious double room for us with radio, TV, air conditioning, and the works. The room also included an excellent buffet breakfast, after which we couldn't complain!

The best thing about the hotel, apart from its regular amenities, was its proximity to the Opera House. The magnificent edifice that reflects culture. We saw here French chandeliers and candelabras, Italian statues and busts, English staircases of wrought iron, etc. All of it, a picture of splendor and magnificence. The Opera House has had its share of ups and downs, though. Launched amidst much fanfare in 1896, it was mainly supported by the money that the rubber industry in Manaus was spinning.

But by the early 1900s, as Asian competition began sweeping it aside, the fortunes of this grand house of culture plummeted. I was happy to see, though, that there has been some revival of the arts, particularly theatre here. On the evening of our visit we were treated to an opera based on Cinderella's story in Portuguese!

The next day being a Sunday we had a ball shopping at the fair organized inside the town's city hall. Here we got some real bargains on Brazilian artifacts and jewelry. We also saw plenty of hammocks, all richly-colored, on display but we bought none. During our two-day trip to Manaus we kept strictly to the town area which, we'd been told, was safe. We didn't venture into any of the slums, also called favalas, where crime runs high. People live close together in hutments with poor lighting and sanitation. In every other way, our Manaus trip was perfect.

Kampala: Haunting specters, charming smiles

luxury hotelThe specter of Idi Amin’s dictatorial regime kept looming as Sue and I alighted at the Entebbe Airport, the site of a dramatic hostage rescue operation by Israeli forces so many years ago. I half-shuddered as I made my way to the taxi stand to get to Kampala from Entebbe. Sue, who was silent up to this point, must have been mulling over the same things. By and by, however, we began to lose our edginess as the warmth of the place; the people reached out and clinched us with calming reassurance. We were propositioned by several motorcycle taxi drivers. These motorcycle taxis are called boda bodas and look extremely dangerous. So we simply shook our heads in polite refusal.

We finally booked a taxi to take us to the hotel Sheena had booked for us, the Kampala Sheraton Hotel. As the towers of the hotel loomed up in the horizon both Sue and I felt immediately reassured. Set in a sultry, seductive tropical background it is an oasis – mainly owing to its magnificent gardens – inside a bustling city. The hotel has cafes, bars, a beauty salon, in fact the works.

We had a late lunch and being a tad too tired, went off to sleep. In the evening Sue and I went across to the Rock Garden, a rather cool night club in the midst of the city. We weren’t charged anything to be admitted and had some great Tusker beer while listening to some rollicking numbers mostly from Uganda and India. We were also treated to a lot of ABBA hits, a thing that bombards your senses wherever you, we realized. The country appears to be quite ABBA-struck.

The next morning we woke up early and stepped out of the hotel and could help marveling at the landscape that Kampala offers. Set out on seven hills, it is the site of the verdant and resplendent views I have seen during my travels. We took a stroll up to the Naksero Market with a zesty medley of shops and restaurants. Such brilliant colors and such bright smiles! I felt sorry when it was time to leave.

Friday, October 23, 2009

Lago de Atitlan: Guatemalan beauty spot



A perfect place to chill out in,” is how Sheena had described Lago de Atitlan. And I cannot agree more. Sue and I stayed at this hotel called Lomas de Tzununa during the entire duration of our stay. From the hotel’s private dock we had to clamber up some three hundred-odd steps and it was beautiful all the way. The food too, was great. We had fish that appeared to have just caught from the lake and cooked, it tasted so fresh!

The next day we drove down with some friends, also guests of the hotel, to a village called Santa Cruz parts of which, we discovered, did not have any electricity. This picturesque village is located at an altitude and we had a pretty steep climb uphill. The seaside and the beach at Santa Cruz is pretty nice. We saw quite a few boats departing from the sea shores for the main village Panajachel.

The saddest feature about this lovely Guatemalan town is the poverty; there are vast Mayan populaces existing within the community with little to survive on, it’s heart-rending. The next day Sue and I decided to go shopping at this place called Panajachel. We loved the colorful markets laid out in the main street. We bought some fabrics with traditional Guatemalan motifs.

I also liked the hand-carved flutes and hand-woven scarves and rugs prepared by the Mayans with their symbols and motifs beautifully embossed. Really quite charming. Feeling hungry we looked around for a nice cafĂ© or restaurant. We saw our friends – the same ones from the hotel – sampling some marinated seafood, raw I believe, called ceviche. They appeared to love it although I didn’t much feel like tasting raw stuff. So we had tacos, spaghetti and some local beer at a wayside stall. Rather nice.