Thursday, April 30, 2009

A city unhurried




Stockholm… the very name conjures up images of opera, art, modern dance and of course, Nobel laureates. Looking out my hotel window I can see the point at which Baltic Sea meets the enormous Lake Malaren. I open the window to let in the sea breeze. It is so cool for summer. My friends back in Melbourne had mentioned that Stockholm is considered to be the Venice of the North. Looking out towards the bridges and waterways I can see that the epithet is justified.

Stepping out of my one of the luxury hotels room in the lovely June morning I hold my breath for a while taking in the scenic loveliness of the place. Despite the commerce and activity all around me I love the unhurried pace of it all. I am certain no one gets heart attack or high blood pressure at Stockholm.

Taking a ferry I cross over to Gamla Stan, the city’s old town situated over an islet. Getting off I find myself enraptured by the sheer loveliness of its cobble-stoned pathways, ochre-colored buildings, and the surrounding shops and bars. I thank the sun for shining brightly as the ochre buildings with their cheery blue roof-tops cast long sliding shadows over the cobble-stoned streets giving amateur shutter-bugs umpteen photography opportunities.

I look at the watch Sue had gifted me, it’s not yet noon. “You simply HAVE TO see the Royal Palace,” she had insisted. Very well then, but I hope to be in time to witness the change of guards. I am in luck. Through the huge crowd I witness the change of guard ceremony with the military band playing in the outer courtyard of the palace. The king, I am told, resides in a place called Drottningholm.

Later that evening I visit the Grona Lund amusement park which brought out the kid in me, especially in the Haunted House where I managed to scare some kids and later made friends with them.

Stockholm is dotted with museums and I don’t get to see them all. The one I do get to view rather extensively is the Museum of Medieval Stockholm detailing the evolution of the city and its origins. I so long to visit other museums and places of interest but there’s no time. Before leaving Stockholm I dip my glass into the river and hold it up against the sky. So clean!

Thursday, April 23, 2009

Turin: The little French Italian city




Walking around the streets and bylanes of Turin, referred to as Torino by the Italians, I was struck by the strut of arcaded pedestrian boutiques and cafes, avowedly Baroque in design and structure. The more extensively I traveled the more I loved this mountainous little Italian city.

Before traveling to Turin all I had known was that it had hosted the 2006 Olympics and was home to the Fiat. I was discovering a new world altogether, in this Piedmont region modestly tucked away in north-west Italy. Driving in from the French border it had taken me a little over an hour to get into my one of the best luxury hotels. The drive, I might add, was picturesque and pleasant in the extreme.

Taking a tour of the city I couldn’t help noticing the strong resemblance to French cities, particularly Paris. Pearly white structures and broad boulevards as opposed to the narrow streets and red and yellow buildings of Florence and Venice make it look very French.
Getting tired of walking I decided to buy an all-day city ticket. I took the tram up to the well-known exhibition complex, Torino Esposizioni designed by the famous Luigi Nervi. It doubled up as an ice rink during the 2006 Winter Olympics; now it has gone back to being a trade show and an art exhibition center.

Later that evening I strolled beside the Po River admiring the Italian Alps from a distance.

The next day I caught the bus up to Mole Antonelliana, one of the greatest landmark pieces of the city which also houses in its premises the National Cinema Museum. There are five sections and my favorite was The Great Temple where I ensconced myself in a reclining armchair and viewed some of the best De Sica films on gigantesque screens overhead.

And how can I possibly leave out the Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist? This is the chapel that houses the rather contentious ‘Shroud of Turin’. Of course, I did not get to see it but walking around in the chapel was a pretty awesome feeling.
Two days in Turin couldn’t cover it all, of course, but I’d had my fill of it. I left the city with a nice, buoyant feeling.

Tuesday, April 21, 2009





The seat of one of Julius Caesar’s oldest colonies Florence represents the glory of the cultural revolution wrought by the Humanist as well as Renaissance movements. Walking through its myriad lanes, though, it is difficult to guess at the number of political upheavals and battles the city has witnessed.

This time we, that is Sue and I, wanted to drive around the Tuscany countryside instead of simply remaining immured within the city which is fascinating, to put it mildly. So we hired a Volkswagen and drove southwards to the vineyard in Chianti. We stopped at Greve and later at a village called Lamole. At Chianti we tried the region’s famous Classico wine and felt quite tipsy afterwards!

The next day we drove off early towards the walled town called Lucca. The scenic beauty of the Tuscany landscape left us spellbound and speechless. I wanted to visit one of the museums but Sue wanted to walk atop the walls of the town. Neither of us was sorry as it was so picturesque and lovely.

Our third day in Florence was spent exploring the various splendid sights of the ancient city. After a hearty breakfast at one,Toscano we set off towards the Duomo overawed by its ceilings, walls, dome, and murals. Somebody told us that the Duomo looks heavenly on a moonlit night. I’ll have to come back for that one!

That evening I took the wheel while driving to the Boboli Gardens housed on the grounds of the Palazzo Pitti. These stately Italian gardens have so many groves and fountains that the head spins in the most pleasurable manner imaginable. The Palazzo Pitti is one of the most majestic palaces I have ever beheld despite its severe façade with only two crowned lion heads as decorative pieces. I missed the Baroque elements of Venice’s palazzos. We walked into the Modern Art Gallery to view some of the masterpieces by painters like Rubens, Lippi, and others.

It was quite late by the time Sue and I headed back to our hotel.

Sunday, April 19, 2009

The glorious city of Pompeii




When Sue and I drove down from Rome last spring we were struck by the beauty of the Bay of Naples. The sea appeared a translucent blue, the likes of which I had not seen elsewhere in Italy. The word ‘Naples’ is derived from the Greek ‘Neapolis’, which directly translates to mean ‘new city’. Driving through its winding narrow lanes we got stuck in innumerable traffic snarls and we were happy to abandon our vehicle near the Garibaldi station vowing to catch public transport instead. We walked across to one of the luxury hotels in city, Una Hotel where we’d made reservations over the net. I believe that’s the best way to go since one can avail of good discounts and promotional packages. Although located in the hub of the city, in the midst of a big and bustling piazza the rooms are sound-proofed and very tidy.

Both Sue and I wanted to explore the city of Pompeii so the hotel arranged a Pompeii night tour which was absolutely mind-blowing thanks to moving multi-media images rendering the show live, interactive and fun. It was great to watch history come alive amidst sound, light and shadows.

The next day saw us at Piazza Municipio beside a medieval fortress locally known as Maschio Angioino or the Angevin Keep. I loved the Santa Barbara Chapel, better known as the Palatine Chapel representative of the Gothic art of the period.

Making our way into the city center we walked into Santa Chiara with both Baroque and Gothic elements. Sue was bowled over by the rustic benches and garden. I, on my part, loved the emblematic columns.

The next day Sue and I booked a boat to the island of Megarides to view the Castel dell’Ovo better known as the ‘Egg Castle’. It was first colonized and settled by ancient Greeks from a place called Cumae. On the islet stands tall and proud the oldest castle of Naples. The word ‘ovo’ in Italian means ‘egg’ and it is widely believed that the poet Virgil hid an egg there which, if broken, can destroy both the castle and the city.

Our last night in Naples was spent at the pizzeria Leon d’Oro which served us some great pasta. We were sorry that our Naples trip was over so soon.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

Sydney: A metropolitan gem




It is six am and I am staring out the window of my luxury five star hotel- the Clarion Suites Southern Cross Darling Harbor. Sipping a cup of coffee I am wondering if the monorail that will take me to Chinatown is running yet. Sue, who’d traveled with me up to Melbourne, had mentioned the exotic Asian food and condiments that this bustling spot in Sydney is home to.

I stare up at the rather sumptuous clock mounted on the wall of my one of the best luxury hotels. It reads seven o’clock. Too early for breakfast but not too early for a brisk morning walk. I head out towards the Darling Harbor and walked around Cockle Bay, the most recent addition to the harbor and renowned for its contemporary nautical design. I understand it plays host to some of the best classical music concerts in winter. My watch says 8. I head back to the luxury hotel for breakfast, a hasty affair comprising bacon and eggs.

The next thing I know is that I am sitting on this monorail and staring out at the busy streets, the harbor, and the CBD spread out below my feet.

Chinatown exists in the southern part of the city’s CBD in a place called Haymarket. It is like entering a different world altogether with street signs in both Mandarin and English. After spending a good half an hour at the flea market where I buy a bargain Levis jacket, I head back towards Cockle Bay, reading a book at a café where I sip cold coffee and generally watch the world go by. I realize how much I am enjoying the sheer luxury of idleness. But only for a while. I put away my book as Sue’s words come back to me: “Don’t forget to visit the Sydney Aquarium. I am astounded by the sheer variety of aquatic life.

The next morning I have to head out to Bondi beach in another state. But that’s a different story altogether.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Bendigo: A nugget of the Gold Rush




It is 25 degrees in the shade as the station wagon draws up outside the Comfort Inn Bendigo Central Debra. Isn’t it a little too hot for March, asks Anne fanning herself. Sue who’d wanted to meet this psychic in Bendigo had dragged us along. The soothing environs of the Comfort Inn, however, puts all misgivings at rest. I am willing to forgive Sue for embarking on such a foolhardy enterprise. “Tomfoolery”, Anne who worked with us in the same office had scoffed. Poor Sue, always the butt of jokes and ridicule. But she seems to take it rather well.

A nice cool shower later we walk across the street to the Pizza Hut Restaurant. We order a large family-sized pizza I forget which, and colas. I pick on my lunch listlessly, it being too hot to eat. I am too tired to drive so Anne takes over at the wheel after lunch. She wants to view the Sacred Heart Cathedral, she says, despite our protests. But getting off I am quite delighted with I see. To be sure, it isn’t like the churches I have seen in France but its façade is impressive nonetheless. The soaring stained glass from Birmingham and the seven-meter cross cast in bronze are pretty fetching.

Next, we drive past the Alexander Fountain over the main Bendigo Boulevard into Emu Point. To tell the truth, I like the Chinese Joss House more than the cathedral; it has such a lively ambience

Later we drive back to the Alexander Fountain- our first encounter with a gold rush relic. We learn that it came up in 1881 and is one of the famous landmarks of Bendigo along with, of course, the Shamrock Hotel.

We drop Sue off at her ‘psychic’s’, after much good-natured ribbing of course. Anne and I spend the rest of the day shopping at Myer at Pall Mall. The Myer story, we are told all began here. Although smaller than the Melbourne store, the varieties are pretty interesting.

It gets quite late as we repair to the Beechworth Bakery on High Street waiting for Sue to return from her psychic. One tip: don’t miss the cakes here, they are heavenly!

Monday, April 6, 2009

The stuff of fairy tales




The luxury hotel called the Radisson SAS Royal Hotel was picked by my travel agent who thought I would absolutely dig its Danish design and he was not far wrong. A tad too expensive, I was completely bowled over by the friendly and eager staff of this magnificent five star hotel. Having arrived in the afternoon I had a quick light lunch and stepped out into the Tivoli Gardens practically next to the luxury hotel.

This original Disneyland spread out over 80,000 square kilometers has some lovely rides, exciting watering holes and some really crazy thrills. I particularly enjoyed the live band that started around late evening.

The next day I headed out towards the waterfront at Christianhavn and took a stroll around the Townhall before stopping by at a bar to sip some beer and gelato. I was particularly enraptured by the quaint little houses dotting the canal at Nyhavn.

While in Copenhagen it was difficult to stay away from the Hans Christian-inspired ‘Little Mermaid’ perched elegantly over a rock in Langelinie which is not too far from the city center. I, personally, wasn’t too taken up with the little lady.

I was far more impressed with the parks and the harborside views. I also loved the Amalienborg Palace although public access to the gorgeous Australian Princess Mary is sadly denied. I was in time, though, to witness the official changing of guards- a pretty impressive sight.

Copenhagen, I was pleased to notice, has a near-flawless transport system and an infrastructure in ship-shape condition. It is also quite a safe city to be in as I discovered while checking into The Dubliner, a jolly Irish pub rocking with cheerful music. Not being a sporty person I found myself, nevertheless, captivated by a football game between France and England.

I was sorry when the ‘fairy-tale’ vacation ended.