Melk: A day well spent

Looking down from the top floor of one of the best luxury hotels, Hotel Stadt in Melk we could see splayed out below a whirligig of red tiled roofs and whitewashed houses and buildings. Melk is a quiet town and ideal for vacations.

Sue and I had arrived in the morning from Vienna. After a meal and a rest at the hotel we made our way to the renowned Stift Melk, also called the Melk Abbey. Sue told me that this was one of the most famous monasteries of the world. I loved the drive up to the rocky outcrop close to the Wachau Valley in lower Austria. From the monastery one can see the rive Danube flowing by. The Cupola, the frescoed ceiling, the long corridor, and beautiful pieces d’art like ‘The Triumph of the Monk’ were nothing short of a visual treat.

While visiting the museum of Stift Melk we came upon the library, Grosse Bibliotek, with the most extraordinary collection of books. There are, for instance, close to 2000 manuscripts and some 1,700 books dating back to the sixteenth century. The ceiling here too, is beautifully frescoed.

Sue and I came out, quite overwhelmed, into the mellow Austrian sunshine. We had coffee and snacks inside the garden pavilion which again, happens to be a work of art. It is very baroque and just as beautiful. Never have I sipped coffee surrounded by so many artistic pieces.

Just as we were about to drive out of Stift Melk we spotted a bench and stand to the right of the foot of the stairs, practically hidden by the foliage. Behind the stand was this man, a farmer, selling candles and soaps along with cakes, wines and brandies. We bought some cakes and wine which we sampled at the hotel. Both were great. The next morning we had to drive back to Vienna and felt sad about leaving Melk.

Belek: A sunny paradise

“This is surely Nature’s lavishness at its best!” Sue had exclaimed on arriving in Belek which is in the Antalya region in Turkey. We had just got in from Paris by air- the journey had taken about three hours. Being driven into our one of the world’s best luxury hotels we noticed the sprawling golf courses with grass so green as to defy description. The soft mauve Mediterranean surrounding the town developed expressly for tourism purposes boasts a chain of well-maintained hotels that do not intrude upon the landscape. What is more, quite a few hotels have their own beach strips. We stayed at this place called Cornelia De Luxe with its plush accommodation and great seaside view.

In the evening we went down to the Troy Aqua Park, one of the largest water parks I have ever seen. Both Sue and I tried the rather dangerous kamikaze slide in which you have to hold your legs very tightly together otherwise your injuries will take a long time to heal.

We saw a number of tourists leaving for the Dolphinarium which is a part of the aqua park. We too lined up to buy tickets that cost us 25 euros each. We saw children under three years of age being admitted free of cost. The show lasted for about an hour. We saw walruses and dolphins; some even swam with them, for a payment of course.

That evening we were taken to the Adnana Kadriye restaurant by some well-meaning friends we had found at the aqua park. It was less expensive than what we’d expected and the food was great. I especially loved the grilled fish and tomato soup. Later we had Efes beer which too was great. As if this weren’t enough, the restaurant staff was friendly and warm and the view from there was simply superb.

One tip: Belek is a great place to shop for leather jackets, purses and things. The quality is great even if the price is somewhat steep.

Gibraltar: Stable as a rock

Thank goodness Sue has cousins living in Gibraltar who were willing to put up with us for a day. Well, here we were, in this last outpost of Europe and facing the huge rock Gibraltar is known for. The rocks are over two million years old, we were told. To our disappointment, we couldn’t manage to get a good view of it as the weather was slightly misty. We did see a lot of monkeys – barbery apes they are called, I believe – scampering about, though. Because Sue’s cousins, Mary and Edwina, had warned us against carrying bags because of the apes, we didn’t even take our cameras along. Instead, we stuffed our wallets in our jackets.

We had entered from the Spanish side on a double decker bus, thank goodness for that. Because those who got in with their cars were asked to fill out endless forms. The car queues are horrendously long and waiting can take a toll of your nerves and patience. Please be warned: a lot of conmen will try and sell you (fake) tickets at the border when all you need is a passport.

After the rock Sue suggested that we explore the St. Michaels Caves. “Caves!” I exclaimed in sheer disbelief, “You’ve got to be kidding.” But when I reached the caves, especially the Siege Tunnels, I couldn’t believe my eyes. The British blasted their way through natural tunnels and carefully crafted them to save Gibraltar’s denizens from continual Spanish attacks. The caves contain a storehouse for ammunition in a dynamite-blasted tunnel called St. Georges’ Hall. A great instance of engineering is all I can say.
We ended the day roaming around the main town square taking in its sights and sounds. We were lucky to be in time for an afternoon concert being performed by a uniformed band whose jaunty Spanish numbers we swung to while sipping coffee at an open restaurant.

That evening we took the bus out of Gibraltar with Mary and Edwina waving their goodbyes.

San Juan: A great place to be stranded in

Sue and I hit upon San Juan purely by accident. The thing is this: we were stranded at the Luis Marin Airport while on our way to so the authorities were kind enough to put us up at one of the best luxury resort spa, the San Juan Marriott Resort and Stellaris Casino. We had a thoroughly good time in the heart of the Caribbean in the midst of a large, picturesque beach. Sue wanted to jump into the swimming pool right away but then we hand no luggage save for our handbags. We had beer in the bar while a live band played some great Spanish numbers. Stepping out into the glorious sunshine we saw a city choc-a-bloc with fabulous Spanish architecture, malls, cafes, etc. This is also where European civilization anchored its beginnings, almost, after Santa Domingo.

Sue wanted to rent a car but was warned by the kindly hotel receptionist about the chaotic traffic and parking difficulties so we decided to hotfoot it to the old city contained within timeworn thick walls. We walked up to the La Plaza de las Palomas meaning ‘Plaza of the Doves’ and saw at least a million pigeons on the archway, the concrete with small kids screaming with delight while breaking off bread and feeding them. The old city is dotted with some breathtaking architecture, La Fortazela being one of them. Currently the Governor’s mansion it was a prison during colonial times. Walking around we were simply charmed by the old houses, old-style lamp posts and the streets. I, for one, did not wish to leave.

A quick lunch at a wayside café later we made our way towards Paseo de la Princesa, the world famous promenade close to the bay. We saw cruise ships docking in and pouring out their legions. The unruffled blue stretch of the ocean left us with a lot of inner peace.
Sue wanted to visit other San Juan landmarks like El Morro and the San Cristobal Fort but there was no time. We made our way back to the hotel tired and happy.

Asuncion: Beauty and the bustle

“Poof!” The interjection was a new one for Sue. But I was able to empathize being conjointly stewed in the clammy Paraguayan heat. We were roaming the streets of Asuncion in the height of summer wearing these ridiculously big hats that almost hid our faces but which also did a good job of shielding us from the fierce sun. “I wish it would rain,” said Sue. I reminded her that if it did we could get stuck as rainwater was known to fill up the potholes and sewages of the city, very often up to the level of 50 meters. And yet, despite the heat and discomfort we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves, taking in the shopping centers, buildings, and museums. That is the beauty of Asuncion, it manages to allure despite minor discomforts.

“Donde esta el correo?” asked Sue, who is an expert on languages. I knew she was asking for directions to the post office. In Paraguay you need to know at least rudimentary Spanish in order to get by. I hadn’t come across anybody who could speak English during our short stay in Asuncion.

The central post office, we noticed to our pleasure, is a sheer visual delight. An ancient building with pristine columns it commands a panoramic view of the city. What I loved most was watching the Paraguay River softly gushing by in a deliberate contrast to the bustling city.

Sue and I later frequented the busy Colon Street known for its touristy appeal. Here we saw Paraguayan women selling herbs by the bundles, especially to eager tourists. One of them even approached me and I, not being conversant with Spanish, beat a hasty retreat.
The next day we were in the Villa Morra district where Sue had to pick up a parcel for her godmother, a hearty Paraguayan lady, from her niece. Here we stopped by for some crayfish and other seafood dishes cooked in the typical Paraguayan style at a place called Fina Estampa. It went down great for two ravenous tourists.
I am already dreaming of a re-visit.

Warsaw: Unforgettable

It was cold at the Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport the morning Sue and I landed at Wlochy, which happens to be 10 kilometers away from the city center. We were required to pass through a passport control station before entering security which took a longer time than anticipated, there being very few screening points.

Being driven to our one of the best spa hotels we saw rows of ghetto-like structures, all very functional and unpretty a relic of the city’s Soviet past, no doubt. We also saw some derelict milk bars, all harking back to the communist era.

After checking in at the hotel the first place we stopped by was at the Warsaw Monument to the Uprising. What we felt is truly indescribable. The statues dedicated to the war heroes trying to rescue their city from the clutches of the Nazis and the communists drove both Sue and me to tears.

One of the monuments was dedicated to a child soldier wearing boots and helmets a couple of sizes too big for him. Some 200,000 people were mowed down to death even as the Soviet army watched on. I felt a shudder creep up my spine.

We wandered around the Old Town in silence and pretty soon our spirits began to revive beholding the restored monuments. Some of the old turreted houses with rust-colored rooftops looked so cheerful as the sun rays set them alight that we couldn’t help feeling heartened. The entire ambience spoke volumes of the dauntless spirit of the city- I salute it with all my heart.

We walked around the Old Town Market Square taking in our fill of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance building and churches. Through all my travels I rarely remember being this moved.

We also stopped by in front of the charming Zamoyski Palace built in a delightful French Renaissance style. The lovely faced and beautiful lawns made us – temporarily – forget the horrors of the war.
Warsaw is one place I will never forget.