Vitoria: Picturesque Basque bastion

Walking around Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, a stolid 17th century square Sue and I were taken by the lovely glazed balconies adorning some very old structures. People here speak avidly in a mix of Basque and Spanish. We had a Spaniard sitting next to us on the plane who told us, rather proudly, that it was this Basque capital that eventually threw Napoleon out of Spain in 1813. Sue and I stopped opposite the monument dedicated t the event.

The quality of life in Vitoria is unhurried and graceful. You will not get motor cars honking at you or driving you up the wall. If I am not mistaken, Vitoria was one of the first cities in the country to have gone pedestrian in a major way.

Sue, who is the reader between the two of us, had mentioned that this quiet Basque city was built on a hilly hamlet known as Gasteiz by the king of Navarre in 1181.
“You must visit the Archaeological Museum,” our Spanish companion had gushed. So off we went to explore it. It had a range of artifacts from prehistoric time right up to the Middle Ages.

Sue really loved the playing cards museum housed within the premises of a restored palace known as the Palacio de Bendana. The cards, contained in some 20,000 card decks, come from all eras and countries. We learnt about the culture, even eroticism of other countries.

Another favorite was the Plaza de Espana which houses the Parque de la Florida. Beautiful floral gardens with attractive layouts included copses and streams. I particularly enjoyed taking a stroll by myself on this tree-lined promenade next to the Basilica de Armentia. The surrounding mansions and parks make for a truly picturesque setting. I was met on the way by smiling couples, nannies wheeling their tiny wards on prams and so on.

There was so much more to explore but we had to catch the flight to Madrid the next morning. I plan to return soon someday.

Brisbane: Deceptively languid

The mild Queensland weather was sending us to sleep at the airport itself. Driving towards the Rydges Hotel one of the best spa hotels at Southbank Sue and I couldn’t help noting the gently curving slope of the Brisbane River. Everything about the town is laidback, from the people to the traffic. There is such an unhurried pace here that one feels relaxed automatically.

A quiet second cousin t the more bustling cities of Melbourne and Sydney Brisbane began to blossom during the 1982 Commonwealth Games.

From the windows of the Rydges we couldn’t help exclaiming at the beauty spread out before us. The landscape of Southbank, especially the riverside region, is extremely fetching to the eyes. It is difficult to believe that it once counted among the city’s ‘sleaze spots’ with run-down establishments, ugly warehouses, dubious pubs et al. Today it is the pride of Brisbane, one of its undeniable pearls.

The beach area too is fascinating (although artificial), with some great eating places. Sue’s favorite was this place called Beastie Burgers on Southbank’s Little Stanley Street whereas I loved the Turkish fare with its varied breads and sauces served at Ahmet’s Licensed Turkish Restaurant on Grey Street.

Southbank isn’t the only picturesque spot in Brisbane, Sue and I discovered. Sue had to meet one of her professors at the Queensland University of Technology which is right next to the Botanical Gardens. Leafy and green with some beautiful shaded spots, I was particularly entranced by the ducks, duck ponds, and the mangroves.

Another of my personal favorites was the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary where we saw these frightfully lazy koalas that seemed to be falling off their hubs atop eucalyptus trees. They also appeared somewhat resigned about submitting to hugs by excited tourists. I, on my part, preferred to leave the poor creatures alone.

Brisbane has a robust nightlife – so much for its laidback, small-town reputation – with a plethora of pubs and bars. Sue and I went to this rather cool place at the Queen Street Mall known as the Treasury Casino. We didn’t play, of course, but had our fill of martini and vodka.

Don’t be fooled by its outward demeanor; Brisbane has a lot of excitement to offer.

De Haan: Stepping back in time

Going around the De-Haan Centre I couldn’t help feeling I was back in the Hansel and Gretel epoch. At any given moment I expected witches and wizards to pop out of the stately Belle Époque villas and whiz past me precariously perched atop a broom or cloud. Sue, who was walking beside me said, “Where are the princes charming on their white steeds?” I knew she was thinking along the same lines as me.

We had arrived the evening before and here we were in this seaside town soaking up its picturesque beauty and elegance. Our hotel concierge had told us we were lucky to have such fine weather. “Last night had been horrible, rains and more rains!” she had rolled her eyes dramatically.

“Oh look!” Sue was pointing in the direction of a spotless white residential building with a russet turreted top. A passerby told us that it was actually a residential building belonging to an Englishman which had been converted to a hotel. “Tourists, mainly from the UK, feel at home here,” she gushed.

Walking intone of the worlds best hotels Beaufort for a late breakfast we were, once again, charmed by the sight that greeted us. Resembling a wedding cake from a distance it has a lovely terrace from which one can view the city. Sue and I had these steaming pancakes fresh from the pan with tea and scones. Sue later had beer which I refrained from taking, it being too early in the day.
The concierge had told us about this old tram station practically next to the Beaufort restaurant. It was such a dear little place replete with Art Nouveau style deco and very British. I felt I had stepped back an era; a more charming one than what I was living in.

If I loved the buildings of De Haan Sue the seaside. The town has one of the most fabulous beaches I have seen with white stretches of sandy white.

Taking the plane out to Brussels that evening we couldn’t help feeling we had left an age, an era behind.

Athens: The acme of civilization

Alighting at Athens’ airport I fell silent for a while. “Penny for your thoughts!” Sue nudged me gently. I was in Athens, the home of Socrates, Sophocles, and Plato. This is where democracy, as we know it today, had taken root. This is where… I decided that if I continued to itemize each accomplishment and realization of this great city I would never get done for the next 24 hours, so I let it go.

A light drizzle cooled the skies as we reached our lodgings in the main city. Deciding against having our breakfast at one of the world's best hotels we checked into this dear little inn which served us the most delicious grilled lamb chops with bread. Sue, who loves learning new words, found out the chops were called paidakia.

Then, like all good tourists we rushed to see the Acropolis.
This celebrated point of significance never seems to lose its sheen. Not only is it an architectural masterpiece but also an acme of artistic expression. Among the most cherished memories of this great monument is the sunlight from behind pink floating clouds falling on the marble. I never regretted having left my camera behind as much as at that point. The Acropolis, like the city it inhabits, continues to re-invent itself. And in some truly amazing ways at that. I would give anything to view the Parthenon and the Temple of Nike once again.

Later in the day, we visited the 19th-century Hellenic Parliament and the famous Athens Trilogy comprising the Athens University, National Library of Greece, and the Academy of Athens.

The third day, our last, ended with a visit to the National Archaeological Museum, the repository of the world’s greatest Greek antiques. Sue also wanted to visit the Planetarium of Athens but there was no time.

And how can I forget my last meal at Athens? Fresh fried fish with rice in an open outdoor restaurant. Like everything in Athens this too was simply great.