Best Western Lord Manaus was chosen by Sheena, our travel agent. She chose this hotel because, she said it was ‘very convenient and comfortable’. Both and Sue and I found her assessment to be correct. Located close to the city center it had a nice, spacious double room for us with radio, TV, air conditioning, and the works. The room also included an excellent buffet breakfast, after which we couldn't complain!

The best thing about the hotel, apart from its regular amenities, was its proximity to the Opera House. The magnificent edifice that reflects culture. We saw here French chandeliers and candelabras, Italian statues and busts, English staircases of wrought iron, etc. All of it, a picture of splendor and magnificence. The Opera House has had its share of ups and downs, though. Launched amidst much fanfare in 1896, it was mainly supported by the money that the rubber industry in Manaus was spinning.

But by the early 1900s, as Asian competition began sweeping it aside, the fortunes of this grand house of culture plummeted. I was happy to see, though, that there has been some revival of the arts, particularly theatre here. On the evening of our visit we were treated to an opera based on Cinderella's story in Portuguese!

The next day being a Sunday we had a ball shopping at the fair organized inside the town's city hall. Here we got some real bargains on Brazilian artifacts and jewelry. We also saw plenty of hammocks, all richly-colored, on display but we bought none. During our two-day trip to Manaus we kept strictly to the town area which, we'd been told, was safe. We didn't venture into any of the slums, also called favalas, where crime runs high. People live close together in hutments with poor lighting and sanitation. In every other way, our Manaus trip was perfect.

Kampala: Haunting specters, charming smiles

The specter of Idi Amin’s dictatorial regime kept looming as Sue and I alighted at the Entebbe Airport, the site of a dramatic hostage rescue operation by Israeli forces so many years ago. I half-shuddered as I made my way to the taxi stand to get to Kampala from Entebbe. Sue, who was silent up to this point, must have been mulling over the same things. By and by, however, we began to lose our edginess as the warmth of the place; the people reached out and clinched us with calming reassurance. We were propositioned by several motorcycle taxi drivers. These motorcycle taxis are called boda bodas and look extremely dangerous. So we simply shook our heads in polite refusal.

We finally booked a taxi to take us to the hotel Sheena had booked for us, the Kampala Sheraton Hotel. As the towers of the hotel loomed up in the horizon both Sue and I felt immediately reassured. Set in a sultry, seductive tropical background it is an oasis – mainly owing to its magnificent gardens – inside a bustling city. The hotel has cafes, bars, a beauty salon, in fact the works.

We had a late lunch and being a tad too tired, went off to sleep. In the evening Sue and I went across to the Rock Garden, a rather cool night club in the midst of the city. We weren’t charged anything to be admitted and had some great Tusker beer while listening to some rollicking numbers mostly from Uganda and India. We were also treated to a lot of ABBA hits, a thing that bombards your senses wherever you, we realized. The country appears to be quite ABBA-struck.

The next morning we woke up early and stepped out of the hotel and could help marveling at the landscape that Kampala offers. Set out on seven hills, it is the site of the verdant and resplendent views I have seen during my travels. We took a stroll up to the Naksero Market with a zesty medley of shops and restaurants. Such brilliant colors and such bright smiles! I felt sorry when it was time to leave.

Lago de Atitlan: Guatemalan beauty spot

A perfect place to chill out in,” is how Sheena had described Lago de Atitlan. And I cannot agree more. Sue and I stayed at this hotel called Lomas de Tzununa during the entire duration of our stay. From the hotel’s private dock we had to clamber up some three hundred-odd steps and it was beautiful all the way. The food too, was great. We had fish that appeared to have just caught from the lake and cooked, it tasted so fresh!

The next day we drove down with some friends, also guests of the hotel, to a village called Santa Cruz parts of which, we discovered, did not have any electricity. This picturesque village is located at an altitude and we had a pretty steep climb uphill. The seaside and the beach at Santa Cruz is pretty nice. We saw quite a few boats departing from the sea shores for the main village Panajachel.

The saddest feature about this lovely Guatemalan town is the poverty; there are vast Mayan populaces existing within the community with little to survive on, it’s heart-rending. The next day Sue and I decided to go shopping at this place called Panajachel. We loved the colorful markets laid out in the main street. We bought some fabrics with traditional Guatemalan motifs.

I also liked the hand-carved flutes and hand-woven scarves and rugs prepared by the Mayans with their symbols and motifs beautifully embossed. Really quite charming. Feeling hungry we looked around for a nice café or restaurant. We saw our friends – the same ones from the hotel – sampling some marinated seafood, raw I believe, called ceviche. They appeared to love it although I didn’t much feel like tasting raw stuff. So we had tacos, spaghetti and some local beer at a wayside stall. Rather nice.

Moeciu de Sus: Pastorally yours

Miles upon miles of pastoral landscape is what Sue and I came across while aking our way towards Moeciu de Sus, a lovely Romanian hamlet- so friends had mentioned to us. Taking the Transfagarsan was hardly the best idea, the way being too long , but neither Sue nor I had issues with driving stretches of beautiful road under a bright mauve sky. Once in a while an odd horse cart would draw up close and the farmer seated atop would cheerily wave at us. We were met by several hitch-hikers on the way. We decided not to stop for anyone initially.

But then we saw two women all by themselves and I pulled over at Sue’s request. Mother and daughter, their names were Gina and Sophia. They didn’t speak a word of English and we knew no Romanian but we still managed to communicate courtesy of miming. We saw an assortment of cattle on the roads, especially cows. At one point I had to stop and let a gaggle of geese cross over. Surrounded by such bucolic wonder, who could complain?

It was Sue who took the wheel by the time we pulled up at the guest house our travel agent Sheena had fixed for us, the Casa Dragoslovean. “Sounds dragon-ish, doesn’t it?” Sue had exclaimed before setting off. Hardly, was our collective verdict on beholding it. The interiors are even prettier; very comfortable and inviting. What I really liked about the place was the food prepared entirely from local produce. Much of it is grown in the kitchen garden and simply delicious for that reason.

There is a strange calm energy about this Romanian village that makes its visitors feel rejuvenated and relaxed akin to the feeling of having just woken from a deep sleep. Stepping out of the guest house Sue and I were content to simply walking around, soaking in the pastoral landscape with its story-book scenery. We also watched the hay stacking and dairying activities. Among the places I absolutely recommend is a village called Bran which is pretty much next door to Moeciu de Sus and, like the latter, breathtakingly beautiful with little hills and waterfalls. A memorable vacation spot, certainly.

Bucharest: Some kind of mix

Sue found it charming while I was slightly uneasy around the uncompromising grey buildings, old remnants of communism… that’s right, the place I am referring is the Romanian capital, Bucharest. A mix of trendy, traditional, and drab is what we got here on our last visit. Sheena, our travel agent, had us booked in at the Ramada Majestic Bucharest Hotel. With its 111 guest rooms, beauty salon, large conference center., fitness center, and swimming pool, it is truly majestic with a great trendy façade. Some tourists staying here mentioned that the Ramada had the cleanest swimming pool in Bucharest.

One of our friends traveling with us on business dropped us off at the Revolution Square on the afternoon of our arrival. He dropped us right opposite the Administrative Complex, also referred to as the Senate. Constructed in 1940, it used to be the headquarters of the Communist Party and the site of the Romanian Revolution of 1989. From where we stood we were able to see the spot from where the infamous dictator Ceausescu relayed his last speech before departing in his helicopter only to be captured and shot a few hours later. Quite chilling.

We also saw the Parliament Palace,a mammoth building and second only to the Pentagon in size. It was the last building to be built under Communist dictatorship. Started sometime in the 1980s, the colossus was finished only in 1997, well after the death of its corrupt owner. Over 330,000 square this giant has 12 floors with rooms that are 84 meters high.

The interiors are characterized by luxury that is vulgar to behold. Both sue and I exited the place with double quickness. From the Parliament Palace we walked down to the Unirii Avenue towards the Antim Monastery, a lovely tribute to the ruler of that name. Such a relief after those concrete communist buildings we had just passed. Well, that’s essentially Bucharest, a mix that can get uncomfortable at times.

Monterey: A place to fall for

Sue wanted to visit California this time round. “A nice Spanish coastal city should be just fine,” she had said with a toss her curls. So we chose Monterey. This was our second visit to San Francisco and we were both having a gala time but she wanted something smaller, “more intimate, if you know what I mean.” So we drove down some 115 miles south to this town that Steinbeck made so popular in his novels. Sue, who happens to be the well-read one, informed me that the city was founded by Spanish soldiers and missionaries and was the capital Alta California belonging to Mexican territory.

The US seized the area in 1846 and developed it into a fishing port. Today, Monterey has a large population of Italian as well as Chinese immigrants. Thanks to its year-round temperate climate it attracts tourists by the droves. So much for somewhere smaller and “more intimate”! We saw this motel called Ramada Limited Monterey next to the highway and drove up. Luckily they had a couple of rooms vacant. For $73 per night we checked into rather large and comfortable guest room with a king-sized bed, bath with clean and crisp linen.

There was cable TV in the room, and an ironing board, etc and the bathroom had a hairdryer. Pretty neat. We also liked the heated swimming pool and Jacuzzi. It was getting late so we slept in early after a long and tiring drive. The next morning we awoke at the crack of dawn and drove down a little further south to view the Mc Way Waterfalls about which we had heard so much. ‘Spectacular’ is the word that comes to mind. This area is called the Big Sur and is famous for its mountainous frothy falls that simply drop into the ocean.

The area is also home to lovely parks like the Los Padres National Forest and Pfeiffer State Park. We didn’t stop at any but were simply content to drive around the highway next to the Saint Lucia Mountains. The next day we went to see the Monterey Bay Aquarium, the largest in the world. Interesting, but nothing to beat the waterfalls.

Jericoacoara: A must visit village town

While visiting Jericoacoara in Brazil we stayed at this place called Pousada Ponta Mar Jeri, a family-owned establishment. A bed and breakfast joint, actually, its rooms are quite nice- spacious and clean with air-conditioning. That is, our room had air-conditioning while quite a few others had fans. There is also a swimming pool that Sue took advantage of during much of our stay. The lady running the place, Dona Rosa, baked us a lovely banana cake on the day of our arrival. Her husband, Daniel, offers buggy rides to several destinations of tourist interest.

We took a walk in the village resembling an extended beach. It only has five streets, it appears. But it is well-stacked with some rather swanky eateries and bars. Not bad for a rural set up, we reckoned. We’d started out early and saw some fishermen making their way towards the sea with their nets, chatting away merrily. Around noon it became rather hot so we went looking for a café.

At Rua Principal we came across this rather chic eatery called Espaco Aberto which, incidentally, I had heard a great deal about. The staff is friendly and the service is well-oiled and efficient. Both Sue and I tried out a number of shrimps and fishes doused in the most exotic Brazilian sauces. The restaurant’s Hawaiian-styled fish is a dish worth trying. Peixe Ao Molho Verde is what its called, I believe.

For souvenir shopping Daniel told us that the shops next to the beach were our best bet. We stopped by at this shop called Jeri Arte which is not far from Rua Principal. What amazing ceramics! We bought cups, saucers, salvers and lamps; all beautifully crafted and designed.

The next morning Daniel took us buggy-riding towards the icon of this village-town, the Pedra Furada or Arched Rock. This a rock, ten meters in height, and naturally sculpted by sea waves. A must visit!

Flatt: Ideal vacation village

Visiting Flatt was Sue’s idea. She so desperately wanted to vacation in Bermuda that I had no choice but to agree. There are no hotels in the Flatt village so we got Sheena to book a reservation for us at one of the best beach resorts, Ramada Plaza Nags Head Beach situated on the Kill Devil Hills in North Carolina.

The next morning we went to visit the Bermuda Aquarium Museum set up by the Bermuda Government. We saw and were thoroughly charmed by the chow, a seabird that would have become extinct but for the efforts of the museum authorities. We also other species like the Whistling Frog, the Beautiful Eastern Blue Bird, and the Bermuda Cedar.

The Aquarium houses over 200 types of fishes, seals, and marine turtles. The aquarium, like the zoo, is a recent addition.

At the zoo we saw Galapagos tortoises, the largest living samples of their species with longevity of 100 to 150 years. Of the original twelve species there are only ten left in the world today. Sue had seen these giant tortoises at Charles Darwin Foundation in Ecuador. For me, this was the first time. And I was quite daunted by their gigantesque appearance.
Wandering around the village we saw these quaint little pink buses which also serve as school buses. Drivers of these buses also don the roles of mentors, we discovered. They tend to discipline these youngsters and if anyone is found loitering around, he or she is yanked back into the bus firmly but kindly. You also need to be properly dressed before getting: bikinis and shorts are a definite no-no. The drivers also make sure that everybody is seated before taking off.

One night during our stay we ordered a typical Bermudian pizza for $14 with hamburgers, cheese, and onions from a Four Star Pizza store on North Shore Road of the village. Pretty good and also rather fresh.
For a relaxed, laid-back holiday Flatt is ideal.

Unforgettable Positano

Looking at the Il San Pietro di Positano one of the world’s best luxury hotels, from afar Sue let out a gasp. The hotel is positioned over a cliff and molded according to its contours. “Did you know,” Sue exclaimed, “it is counted as amongst the top ten hotels in the world?” I could well believe her, who’s usually well up on facts and trivia.

The porter wheeled our luggage into the elevator at the base of hotel opposite which is an unpretentious-looking church. The elevator let us out into the main lobby. Once there, we held our breath once again. It is one the largest and the most beautiful lobbies I have ever seen. Adorned by paintings and sculptures it runs into a terrace with the most exotic foliage. The first impression was certainly a charming one.

Since our plane had been delayed we had a quiet dinner inside our hotel room and turned in early. The next day Sue wanted to visit the famous Isle of Capri which, thanks to our travel agent Sheena, had been booked beforehand. No last-minute bookings here, we were told. Later I was to thank her profusely over the telephone.

The turquoise waters around this bejeweled piece of land are crystal clear; we were able to see the rich sea-bed beneath as though watching through a glass. We couldn’t miss seeing the Blue Grotto, could we? Passing through the cave we were struck by the rich blue tints of the waters, the silvery sheen of the light. The experience was sheer heaven and a little difficult to put into words. It was 4 pm when we returned to Positano. Both Sue and I were too overwhelmed by what we’d seen to be able to speak.

On our last morning we traversed the city on foot which, we discovered, is so easy thanks to little stairs and steps leading up and down the city. That too, was an experience in itself- quite unforgettable.

Sintra: Quaint and pretty

“Pretty unique,” Sue said as we strolled up and down the Palacio National. She was pointing towards the chimneys which, I agree, appear pretty unique to the urban cape of the Portuguese city of Sintra. We were standing close to the kitchen area of the palace which was basically an enclosed corridor with rows of fireplaces- ancient cooking ranges. Very quaint. We also saw these gigantic racks with large utensils that were once utilized for preparing royal dishes.

Going through the 14th century palace I was particularly enamored with the Royal Court of Arms with its blue and white tiled walls. Sue, on the other hand, liked the long Swans’ Hall containing ceiling panels painted with – you guessed right – swans.

It was lunchtime by the time we repaired to our hotel in the more ancient part of the city. The Lawrence S Hotel that Sheena had booked for us is one of the prettiest and oldest hotels and is also one of the world’s best luxury hotels in the Iberian Peninsula. An ancient manor house of the 18th century it has been beautifully restored to keep up with contemporary times. The reception, bar, and lounge areas are well-designed and spacious.

Sue wanted to go out souvenir shopping in the evening. The concierge as well as hotel guests had mentioned that taking a walk in the old part of the city would prove to be very fruitful, and it did! Sintra is choc-a-bloc with quaint shops and outlets with the greatest local artwork and craft. Little alleys, nooks and corners had some amazing pieces of crockery, ceramics, tiles, even fabrics. Sue bought some lovely embroidered stuff and pieces of pottery.

Not wanting to eat at the hotel particularly we drove out to this place called Galamares not too far from the main town. I would recommend its services, ambience and food any day. Do try their duck rice, its fantastic!

Kazakhstan: A place of scenic charm and culture

Some friends who’d traveled to Kazakhstan a year ago had recommended Almaty to us. Sue, the culture buff and ever so erudite, had immediately looked up the encyclopedia and the net to inform me, in that special knowledgeable way she has, that Almaty was not only the cultural centre of central Asia – a big plus as far as she is concerned – but also a major financial hub, a former capital of Kazakhstan and continues to be its largest city. I also learnt that it figures amongst the top 50 most expensive cities in the world. Certainly not the most comforting of thoughts, I joked to her!

Flying from London we changed planes at Abu Dhabi and landed at Almaty courtesy of Etihad Airways.

A taxi took us to one of the best luxury hotels, Ambassador Hotel at $25. We later realized, to our dismay, that the hotel could have arranged a free pick-up for us had we requested it. The Ambassador is very comfortable with a great location. It is also quite business-like with a large conference hall, lobby bar, and business center.

The next morning we went to meet Sofia and her husband Kamal, a couple we’d met in Boston, who lived at the end of a rather charming street called Dostyk Avenue. At their insistence we went to explore the Panfilov Park practically next door to where they live. “You must visit the Glory Monument,” Sofia had said over coffee and muffins to us.
She was right; we loved it. The sculptures of the soldiers who gave up their lives in defense of Moscow during the Great Patriotic War of the 1940s are terrifically executed and very dramatic. I found the Glory Memorial surrounding the Eternal Flame and the sculpture of the soldier leading the horses of his slain friends very touching.

Feeling somber we drove up to the Auezov Drama Theatre where nothing was on, yet. Kamal wanted to go to a place called Dastarkhan for “some amazing Kazakh food.” But I, who was getting mesmerized by the snow-capped peaks of the Tian Shan Mountains, simply pulled up a chair at this simple meal kiosk drinking in the view. Lovely!

Bhutan: Royally hospitable

The best way to get to Bhutan, we had been told, was through India. This Shangri-La of the East is a tight-lipped land-locked Himalayan Lilliput, home to extraordinary sights and peaceful serenity. The original name of this petite country is ‘Druk Yul’ which translates to the ‘Land of the Peaceful Thunder Dragon’. It was Marco Polo who named it ‘Bootan’ during his famed peregrinations. It was only in the early 70s that the cloistered country threw open its doors to foreigners and visitors. And a good thing too, as Sue and I discovered.

Traveling to Bhutan was an impulsive decision on Sue’s part who wanted to see part of the Himalayas and the lovely Buddhist monasteries, the vaunted boast of this near-hidden land. We were still in Delhi where we contacted a tour agent who arranged our visas for us (Indian nationals do not require them, we learnt) which were stamped in Thimpu, the capital of the country. For $ 474 (per head) the tour operators booked us seats with Druk Air and we landed at the Paro International Airport. The drive up to the hotel was scenic and beautiful and it got quite dark by the time our friendly cab driver drove us to this place called the Kichu Resort, which is one of the world’s best resorts. We were both charmed by the hospitality and warmth of the hotel staff that immediately welcomed us with hot tea and snacks.

The next morning we set off for Thimpu. Another scenic drive that drove our senses wild. The Yeezdin Guest House booked by our agent is centrally located and very large. While the city is certainly picturesque with some really beautiful spots we could see large-scale construction taking place almost everywhere. For a capital city it is really small but efficiently run.

Like the Indians the Bhutanese too love their food hot and spicy as we discovered when we stopped by at a place called Bhutan Kitchen. I liked the cheese-baked dishes, though. I also liked their local beer called Arrakh. Tastes mild but what a bite!

Anchorage: a unique Alaskan adventure

The last time Sue and I had been to Alaska we had simply rushed through Anchorage in our bid to explore the Great Land and its bounties. This time, visiting this city – laughingly referred to as Los Anchorage by many – was my idea, not Sue’s. Upon the advice of friends I had even gone ahead and booked the Econo Lodge Hotel, one of the world’s best hotels.The hotel has a free shuttle and we landed safe and sound at this rather old little inn with this rather old-world, comfy atmosphere.

The next day we put on our snow shoes and went off to this nice little ski resort called Alpenglow in the Chugach Mountains. Alpenglow being a volunteer-run resort, it doesn’t rent out gear and equipment. Just as well we had our own gear with us. After some heady skiing near-accidents we headed down a trail called Flattop. Somebody had told us back at the Lodge that it was the most popular trail in Anchorage and no wonder. Walking along it we saw some great views of Cook Inlet and the surrounding hills.

That night we decided to pass the diner at the Lodge in favor of this homely, cozy little place called Gwennies. I loved the soup, bread and sausage. They were also serving reindeer sausage which, frankly, I did not care to try.

The next morning Sue wanted to shop around for some gifts and souvenirs. Being a touristy sort of place Anchorage is choc-a-bloc with outlets catering to the needs of tourists. We settled for a rather quaint little place called Oomingmak: The Qiviut Shop. And am I glad we did. Run by Max Ox Producers Cooperative this store is a treasure trove of handmade scarves, caps, stoles, etc. The texture has to be seen – sorry, felt – to be believed. The items are knitted out of the Arctic Musk Ox wool, which is much finer than sheep’s wool and pretty steep price-wise.

This Alaskan adventure has been a truly unique one.

Abu Simbel: A temple village

Sue was still yawning inside the hotel room. Sheena, my travel agent, had booked for us the Nobaleh Ramsis, one of the world best hotels, which is pretty close to all the museums and historical sites.

We had to catch the plane from Cairo at 5.30 am. This meant no one had slept throughout the night. Add to that the revelry and the racket Sue’s cousins were making in the next room. Our first day in Abu Simbel, for the most part, was spent sleeping. We had considered driving in from Aswan but were told about the impossibility of getting in that way. “Security reasons,” a policeman in Cairo had said. We did see quite a few tourists getting off a bus, though.

Well meaning friends had advised us about acquiring enough information about the ancient exotic city – actually a village – situated in the north of the Sudanese border in Egypt as ‘you won’t even find the time to see it all.’ Sue, being the more erudite of us two, had done most of the reading. It was she who told me that the city had been rescued from the rising fury of Lake Nasser by the United Nations. But I was mainly interested in the temples dedicated to Rameses II, the Great.

The next morning we set off accompanied by a guide to explore the village hillside next to the Nile. Our guide directed us towards the magnificent temple of Rameses II, the Great. The temple, he told us in his halting English, had been reconstructed brick by brick when the flood waters had entered it, and relocated atop the hill. The four statues of the great Pharaoh are marvelous pieces of art, absolutely awesome. They face a man-made mountain that resembles a giant rock.

Abu Simbel, we noticed, was bereft of cosmopolitan life; there seems to be no place to eat out. So we ate at the Nobaleh Ramsis Hotel. A nice way to end a rather eventful day, say what?

Ulaanbaatar: Where drab becomes pretty

The first impression of the capital city of Mongolia is hardly the best. Sue summed it up with one word, ‘drab’. We had caught the train from Beijing which is so richly beautiful and thriving and this was a let down. Let down? Well, not really. For the city began to grow on us pretty soon, despite the biting cold and the miserable ambience. Sue had bought a map at the Mongolian Government Map shop located near the State Department Store. Not knowing the local language, Sue said, the map was going to fill in some ‘vital knowledge gaps’.

We took up accommodation at this rather cute place called Gana’s Guesthouse which is not too far from the railway station. It was better than staying at a ‘ger’ or a traditional tent or a dorm. We had a spacious double room to ourselves with toilet and shower. Very clean and comfortable. It was at night that we felt the bite of chill, ooooh! But the warmth of the staff more than made up for the chill. They were even kind enough to help us organize our tours for us. Ulaanbaatar being a small town we were able to undertake most of our excursions on foot. Our first visit was to the post office, a beautiful building with a lofty tower touching the clouds in one corner of the famous Sukhbaatar Square. We wanted to send off some postcards to friends and family and we found such a wide range of stamps and postcards that it boggled our minds!

We also took a tour of the National History Museum near the square which was quite informative. I particularly liked the huge skeleton of a dinosaur.

To try authentic Chinese food we went up to the Ulaanbaatar Hotel not too far from the Drama Theater. Both Sue and I loved the pineapple chicken with steamed noodles and rice. A ‘must try’ surely.

Gettysburg: Where the old meets the new

Honestly speaking, I can see what makes Pennsylvanians so proud of this tiny little town-let. For here is an exotic confluence of history and scenic beauty. Tucked away rather serenely in the Hills of Adams County it is somewhat difficult to imagine it was once the site of one of the bloodiest battles in history. Driving along a long stretch of pictorial farmland along the Old Lincoln Highway on a lovely spring morning was a treat in itself. We saw monuments and statues arrayed all across the highway in a tribute to the soldiers and generals who fought in the battle of 1863.
Driving up to Gettysburg-Day Inn we saw the denizens darting in and out of their quaint abodes in the costumes of the 1860s. A little too good to be true, we thought. In earlier times the place was known as Marsh Creek. The term Gettysburg came about thanks to an early American settler who launched a tavern in the late 1700s.
Among the things that Sue and I liked in this quaint, curious little town was the 44th and 12th NY Infantry Monument in a locality called Little Round Top. The view on top is absolutely marvelous.
We also visited the famous site at the National Cemetery where the late President Lincoln delivered his renowned Gettysburg Address in November 1863. The grass under our feet was as soft as felt. It felt good taking a stroll around the cemetery.
We next visited the Battle Theatre showcasing a mini battlefield. The multi-media show presenting the battle is most interesting to behold. Don’t miss it if you can.
We drove down to the downtown area for a bite and on a whim chose the most expensive restaurant- Dobbin House. I loved it because the food was ‘home-made’. The sandwiches and the vegetable entrees tasted heavenly to our ravenous tongues. The restaurant décor has some great retro touches harking back to the 1700s. The menu and the music is especially designed to take you back in time.
A great place for a weekend. Check it out if you can.

Blois: tres charmante

“Look!” Sue pointed from the window of the aircraft circling over the little French town. I craned my neck to look at the white houses with crimson chimneys. I could also see a cathedral atop a hill. Blois had made a charming first impression.

We were driven to the Cote Loire – Auberge Ligerienne, a rather sprawling mansion with a lot of character. It does not look like a hotel per se but reeks of atmosphere. I quite liked it actually.

That evening we took a stroll around the Loire River which was in state of semi-spate. From its banks we could see its landmark bridge constructed in mid 18th century by the renowned French architect Jacques Gabriel. Quite impressive, both Sue and I felt.
The next morning we went to see the Chateau de Blois in the Loire Valley. An exotic residence to ancient French royalty, it was also visited by Joan of Arc in 1429 who was blessed by the Archbishop of Reims before she left for Orleans with her army to battle the English. I loved the castle’s spiral staircase, the Louis XII wing along with its impressive façade, and the Chambre du Roi.

Feeling peckish after our excursions we stopped by at this French restaurant called Le Triboulet next to the Château de Blois. The décor is traditionally French and very cheerful. Sue couldn’t stop raving about the duck sausages or andouilletes de canard (didn’t try them myself) while both of us loved the fresh seasonal river fish preparation and the dessert, cooked prunes doused in red wine. Sue also ordered their plateau de fromages.

We also visited the Musée de l’Objet with its unique architecture housing some great sculptures and artworks. Wandering around the streets flanking the edifice felt great too as we got to see such marvelous facades and houses constructed partly out of timber.
We had to catch a flight in the evening. The holiday was over too soon for me.

Gafsa: Underrated Paradise

Gafsa has to be one of the best kept secrets of the African continent. Most people tend to simply pass it over in favor of other ‘exotic’ destinations like Tozeur or Douz. True it is cities that appears to be crumbling and needs to be promoted more aggressively but it have some really endearing spots.

Wandering around the Kasbah area and going past its butterscotch walls we could see the devastation it had witnessed thanks to World War II. Like a sturdy sentinel, though, it stands tall and proud guarding the town. Situated on an oasis the Kasbah looks picture perfect. On the brink of an oasis is a little café where we had sipped hot coffee and snacked on muffins.

The Medina in Gafsa was every bit as interesting as the one in Marrakesh although smaller. Both Sue and I got lost a couple of times there!. A nice old man pointed the way out. We saw some really beautiful mosques on the way; I was especially impressed with the architecture of the Great Mosque which, I understand, enjoys pride of place in the Medina.

Another sight that impressed me – and Sue – greatly was the Roman pools housed in a rather ornate square. They reminded me of the Mughaloid hammams in Delhi and Fatehpur Sikri in India. Sue, who can never resist a chance to swim, dived right in. “It is so warm and pleasant!” she urged me to join her, an offer I smilingly declined.
For lunch we made our way back to the Kasbah towards the edge of the oasis. We noticed that most restaurants in Gafsa are for ‘men only’. Rather quaint in this day and age.
On our way back we passed by Place 7 Novembre, a historic square in one of the town’s main streets.

We also did some shopping for some delicacies at Gafsa’s main market reeking with exotics aromas and scents. We bought these yummy local cakes and later gorged on them. This tiny paradisiacal oasis is clearly underrated.

Kericho: green charm

Whatever one may say about Kenya, both Sue and I loved Kericho, the tea heartland of the country. The hotel we were staying in was seedy, rundown and a real disappointment. But we couldn’t say the same about the town per se. Situated in the wet highlands of the Rift Valley, it is a green-laden paradise. That green has a rather unique appeal to the eyes, a translucent kind of emerald, if you know what I mean.

Sue, my mobile chatterbox encyclopedic friend and alter ego, had mentioned that the tea town was christened after a brave Masai chief who was slain by the Gusii tribe during the 18th century. She had also let on that next to India and Sri Lanka, Kenya happens to be the largest tea grower. And we were here, right inside the tea heartland of Africa surrounded by a vast mossy green carpet as far as the eye could see.

We started out early the next morning to go to the Ruma National Park. Our hotel had arranged for a jalopy and a driver to take us there and had even packed some sandwiches and tea in a flask for us (earning some redemption in our eyes). We went through a couple of fishing villages going past some beautiful coastlines. The park is picturesque and beautiful like most parks but what I admired most was the numerous species of antelopes, particularly the Oribi (among the smallest in the antelope family) we got to see. We also saw some rare birds like the Blue Swallow, Fish Eagle, and White Egret.

The next day being a Saturday we went to a disco at the one of the world’s best hotels, Mid-West Hotel. We first went to the bar at a place called Urwa Inn where there are some nice pool tables and relatively inexpensive beers. Both Sue and I let our hair down and danced all practically night. The discotheque at the Mid-West Hotel is pretty safe compared to quite a few others.
The emerald greenery of the town certainly held us spellbound over that one weekend.

Lanzarote: Windy and picturesque

It was windy when we landed in Lanzarote, the furthest of the Canary Islands. We pulled our jackets about close as we waited for the bus to take us to the center of capital Arrecife. We got off in the town square and made our way wheeling our luggage behind us. We had expected a small establishment but to our surprise the Lancelot Hotel is pretty large and overwhelming and is also one of the luxury beach hotels commanding a gorgeous seaside view.

I loved the spacious room they provided us with along with TV, mini-bar, telephone and an in-room safe. We had lunch at the large restaurant there after freshening up. Being tired we decided to rest a little. It was slightly late by the time our tiredness wore off. I was all game for winding up the evening at the hotel bar which appeared pretty decent to me. But Sue insisted on going out. She had made friends with Percy – another hotel guest – and his girlfriend Lisa who wanted to hang out at this place called Bar Hook at Costa Teguise. They had rented a car so off we went for a swig of cocktails at Bar Hook. The ambience was quite nice despite the sharp prices. The size of cocktails was pretty generous which were poured out in front of our eyes.

The next morning we drove through the wind along the picturesque coastline till we hit upon the Los Pocillos beach which in Spanish translates to ‘the puddle’. This is a curious quirk of nature as the puddle manages to run off into the ocean. We saw some kids shrieking with delight as they splashed about in it.

There is one site in Lanzarote you must absolutely not miss. This is the island of Mirador del Rio. Standing at one corner of Lanzarote we couldn’t take our eyes off the heavenly ground-piece, beautified further by the artist Cesar Manrique. Two domes roofed in and a restaurant contained within an artificially created mountain cavity make it look ravishing.
Other places we liked were the cactus gardens and the Timanfaya National Park.
A great place to visit, surely.

Odense: Fairy tale land

Traveling to Odense was my idea. Ever since I learnt that this third largest city in Demark – next to Copenhagen and Arhus – was the hometown of Hans Christian Andersen. A tiny local carrier called AirBorne brought me in, along with my best friend and alter ego, from the Italian city of Parma. Ever since the construction of the Great Belt Bridge airline carriers have practically stopped halting at Odense.

A friendly cab driver drove us to our one of the best luxury hotels, Radisson SAS Andersen which is part of the chain operated by SAS, the Scandinavian Airlines. Bang in the midst of the old town, it is very close to the town hall where we saw a statue of Hans Christian Andersen. Sue was mighty tickled as there is casino downstairs.

I was longing to visit the home of the Grimm’s fairy tales. The hotel concierge had mentioned that the Hans Christian Andersen Museum on Bangs Boder opens at 9 am sharp. It was all I expected it to be- and more. The museum is housed inside a modern building. Stepping inside the museum we were treated to the life of this remarkable writer for children. Lovely frescoes by the artist Niels Larsen Stevns, cutouts, letters and other artifacts narrate the life story of the writer. We also visited his little cottage at the back of the museum. “I expect the place transform any moment,” exclaimed Sue, “and see jellies hanging from the roof.” She was echoing my sentiments word for word.

On our way back we saw this rather gorgeous church dedicated – as we learnt from people there – to King Knud who met his end at the hands of rebels in the 11th century.
Although taxis abound in Odense we decided to walk back to the hotel. On the way we stopped at this café called Baresso Coffee on top of a bookstore. The place has a mind-boggling range of coffees, including hot, cold and iced. We settled for two cappuccinos and cheese sandwiches. Pretty good.

Varadero: Touristy and rustic

“This is just… so heavenly,” Sue yawned and stretched herself on the beach. This was our second morning in the Cuban resort haven, Varadero. The beach was next to the Sol Elite Palmeras, one of the four star luxury beach hotels, actually a sprawling bungalow with nice restaurants, bars and a pool. I personally thought that the Cuban resort town was a little too ‘touristy’, if you know what I mean.

Sue wanted to visit the Santa Elvira Church in the afternoon so that’s where we went. While I had seen other cathedrals and churches that are truly beautiful but I still loved the rural, rustic appeal of the thick, stone-walled edifice resting on chunky beams with double windows and doors.

Sue clicked a lot of photographs while I contented myself with taking a stroll, talking to the locals in broken Spanish and taking in the quiet surroundings. It got late by the time we got back to the hotel. Sue wandered off by herself as she wanted to take a swim in the pool. Crazy girl! I went to the bar and poured out a drink for myself. Later we had dinner together in the room.

The next morning we set off early to view the archaeological site around Ambrosio’s cave where runaway slaves were known to seek refuge during the colonial era. With an entrance fee of three pesos we got an insight into ancient Indian rituals and customs. I particularly loved the large collection of pictographs of the time.

On our last day we decided to go shopping for gifts and souvenirs. One of the hotel guests had recommended visiting the downtown area as opposed to shopping around in the hotel complex. We made a beeline for the local craft market which kept us fascinated for hours as we picked out wood carvings, exotic necklaces, T-shirts, etc.

On our last evening we had a buffet dinner at the hotel where we sampled various pastas, breads, and pastries.

Our stay in Varadero was short but sweet. Definitely worth re-visiting.

St. Maarten: sun-soaked paradise

Getting into St. Maarten in the Caribbean takes about four hours from New York by flight. We had heard of the great beeches of the place, 37 at last count. Sue, who loves beeches, had jumped up in excitement at Sheena’s, our travel agent’s, office.
We landed at the Princess Juliana airport which has a duty-free shop, a restaurant, a bank, even car rentals.

The airport taxi delivered us to one of the world’s best hotels booked by Sheena on Orient Beach called La Plantation. Arriving there I felt I was stepping into Grimm’s fairyland- one with palm trees and a swimming pool. Beautiful furniture with great downy beds and pillows and mosquito nets reminiscent of the sets of Cleopatra made our two-day stay very comfortable. Plus, we had this long balcony overlooking the ocean; all very exotic and glamorous.

We went for a walk down Orient Beach in the evening after tea. This beach is clearly demarcated for aquatic sports. We saw some lovely diving and snorkeling spots. Charming huts – called ‘tiki’ huts – line this particular beach.

The next morning we went to explore Marigot, the capital of the French side of the country. This tiny little place with only four streets to boast of nestles rather smugly next to the Marigot Bay. This infinitesimal megapolis packs in quite a bit in terms of bustling crowds, a handicrafts’ bazaar, designer outlets housing the trendiest wares from the world over (all tax-free, by the way). Great bistros and coffee houses make it look very French.

We couldn’t resist visiting that evening the Dutch-side capital of this interesting and diverse little country. So we drove down to Philipsburg where most people speak English. The place is more well-developed than its French counterpart and happens to be a real shopper’s paradise. Since we were not in the mood for any shopping we were content to sit out at the harbor at a wayside café and watch the ships dock.
It was evening by the time we got back, tired, hungry but immensely happy.

Queenstown: A picture of adventure

For a remote town in lovely, pristine New Zealand Queenstown is sure a busy little place. It was here – billed by tourism booklets as the ‘adventure capital of the world’ – that I tried my hand at bungee jumping. To tell the truth, as the cords were being tied to my feet I couldn’t help feeling my heart stop near my throat. Sue went off into peals of laughter watching my semi-blanched face. Did I make it finally? I am happy to report that I did. Of course, Sue managed to jump more gracefully than I did off the Kawarau Bridge, the world’s first commercial bungee-jumping site.

Just walking about in the town was proving to be an eye-soothener. There were blue lakes, snow-capped mountains and green trees whichever way we turned. The air smelt delicious as we moved with our backpacks towards the Winnie Bagoes Gourmet Pizza Bar in the Mall. We were pleasantly surprised by the interiors- a massive bar, billiards tables, a cheerful fireplace and comfy chairs. Not like a pizza place at all, in a sense. The pizzas are thinly-crusted with a variety of toppings. I liked my mini Italian pizza while Sue raved about her smoked-chicken served with Brie and cranberry sauce.

One of the highlights of the trip was visiting Bob’s Peak on the cableway Skyline Gondola. Suspended atop the breathtaking beauty Lake Wakatipu we thought nothing could be better and then we beheld the Remarkable’ peaks. The blue-green mountains with their vanilla toppings were too riveting to the eye to be dismissed lightly.

Although we were tired out we still managed to make our way to one of the world’s best luxury hotels, hotel Novotel Gardens – on foot enjoying the scenery on the way. Close to some beautiful local gardens and well-manicured lawns, it is one of the most picturesque hotels in town. We were lucky enough to get a room on the ground floor with a walking trail right outside the door. The next morning we took a walk on the trail. That itself was an adventure in itself.

The place has my strongest recommendation

Christmas Island: Close to heaven

Christmas Island is one place where nature colludes with the elements to create magic. Neither Sue nor I had beheld before such a variety of birds in all the colors imaginable under the sun. We saw a mind-boggling range of imperial pigeons, silver bosuns, emerald doves and thrushes that we found ourselves breathless and agape at the same time.

Flying in from Perth we stayed at this lovely place called the Captain’s Last Resort which is one of the best lake spa resort. Staring down from the balcony we saw schools of exotic fish in the crystal clear waters of the Indian Ocean.

Sue’s alarm clock woke me up early the next morning. She was still asleep when I went out into the balcony to soak in the refreshing morning air. Not a soul was in sight, but the birds were up and about chirping overhead in the trees. I saw a seagull flying out into the ocean and disappearing. I resolved to visit one of the many beaches on this island with Sue. In the little kitchenette I prepared a hot cup of lemon tea for myself. Sue had woken up in the meantime and was making enquiries about renting a four-wheeled drive at the Christmas Island Tourism Association.

An hour later we drove down to the remotest part of the island- Dolly Beach. Its sandy softness and thick rainforest were a sheer visual extravagance. Swaying coconut palms and live marine turtles made our day. The area also has a fresh water spring, which makes it a favorite with picnickers. On our way back we came across a tour group from Sydney enthusiastically diving into the azure ocean waters.

Christmas Island is not a shopper’s haven; reason enough for its limpid beauty. Opposite the Christmas Island Visitor Centre we came across this small grocery shop where we bought bread and tea leaves. We also espied a supermarket opposite but we didn’t go in.
That evening we had coffee as we listened to the waves of the Indian Ocean lapping at the shores of the Flying Fish Cove. It was the closest to heaven as we could get.

Mussoorie: Of greenery and sunset

“You know, I don’t feel very self-conscious here,” Sue was saying as we made our way towards Kulri in Mussoorie. I could appreciate that. In India she had been at the receiving end of (often unsought-for) male attention. My olive skin and dark eyes, on the other hand, had kept me ‘safe’. In Mussoorie she no longer felt like an ‘alien’, there being so many foreigners. We were dragging our luggage up to a bed and breakfast joint called All Seasons recommended and booked by a friend from India.

The main town was a disappointment; especially after the drive up from Dehradun, the valley-town of the new-born north Indian state of Uttarakhand. Too much traffic, dirt, smells of cow dung and tourists from the Indian capital Delhi. And yet it was all quaintly unique, so rustic although Mussoorie was developed by the British into a hill station.

All Seasons is an unpretentious guest house cheek-by-jowl to a couple of swanky five star hotels. Yet it manages to hold its own thanks to its cozy, homely interiors and warm staff. Run by ‘Winkie’, a turbaned Sikh gentleman, it is the acme of hospitality. He gave Sue and me the best room with a huge king-sized bed, bath, walk-in closet, TV, fridge, and Wi-Fi access. My favorite feature, however, was the balcony overlooking the hills?

The guest house doesn’t provide lunch so we decided to eat Thai and Chinese food at The Tavern which was close by. The egg noodles that Sue ordered were pretty nice but I loved my Thai chicken curry and iced tea.

That afternoon we booked a taxi to take us to Kempty Falls, so named by the Brits thanks to their love for tea. ‘the word Kempty’ happens to be a corruption of ‘Camp Tea’, a 19th century colonial tradition. Kempty, frankly, was a disappointment with the water having thinned and the trash. The drive back to All Seasons was far more entrancing. But nothing to beat the sun spreading its orange resplendence while slipping behind the mountains- a sight that caused us to down our teacups in the evening.

Samarkand: Sandy splendor

Walking about in Samarkand in our hats and after having downed several glasses of water the summer heat was, frankly, beginning to get to us. This Uzbek city is beautiful, no doubt, but because of its locale in the desert it gets unimaginably hot here. Thankfully, the city is literally littered with tea-houses. Escaping into one to obtain relief from the merciless sun was not at all difficult, thankfully.

Both Sue and I voted Registan (in Urdu the word means desert) as among the most impressive squares we had come across during our travels. This 15th century structure is also home to three madrasas or educational institutions hailed for their lovely architecture. We later visited the Rukhobod Mausoleum which is rumored to house a hair of Prophet Mohammad.

We also went to see Samarkand University and, once again, fell in love with the architecture. Surrounded by green lawns, the leafy glades and benches offer respite from the fierce sun. There exists a park in the south west end of the university dedicated to musician, poet, and painter of Timur’s time. There are also quite a few good restaurants close by. What deterred us from going in were the high prices.

We made our way back to the one of the best luxury hotels, Hotel Zarina which Sheena, our travel agent, had so kindly booked for us. On the way, we passed Registan once again and couldn’t help marveling at its beauty yet again. Both Sue and I quickly whipped out our cameras.

Making our way towards Zarina we stopped short opposite this rather gorgeous place called ‘Lyabi Gor’. With pleasant interiors the restaurant is pretty clean. We sat at a table and ordered the famous Uzbek green tea to be followed by chicken shaslik and stuffed peppers. The service was prompt and the staff quite courteous and pleasant. I would recommend the place any day.

Aswan: Truly Egyptian

Before flying to Aswan the only thing I had known about the city was its famous dam, I now ashamed to admit. Once there I felt as though I was part of one of Rider Haggard’s novels. Turning to Sue on Elephantine Island I said, “I feel like Ayesha (of ‘She’),” and walked with an exaggerated swagger. The winding streets and alleyway, the chocolate-faced urchins scurrying about, the gigantesque boulders resembling elephants next to the Nile, and ruins of the Khnum temple left us quite out of breath.

Staring out towards the turquoise Nile River I was reminded of yet another classic, Agatha Christie’s ‘Murder on the Nile’. Would Sue and I meet with an exotic adventure on a boat, I wondered. As long as we didn’t get murdered, I thought wryly. “A penny for your thoughts!” Sue ribbed me with her elbow, “Hey! How about getting on to that felucca?” Feluccas are sailboats where the sails are made of canvas.

”Why are you staring at me so hard?” she asked, regarding my expression. Had she read my mind, I couldn’t help wondering. The two young boys who were manning the boat managed to steer it well. The breeze from the Nile fanned our faces and hair and we stared out contentedly at the sun setting fire to the Nile waters before disappearing behind the desert. A sight of breathtaking beauty!

We docked in at the Essa Island in the center of the Nile. Going by our watches it was 7.30 pm. Not yet dinner time but our tummies were rumbling. Moreover, we had heard about a great Nubian restaurant. We ordered Egyptian bread with chicken curry amidst loud music which we attacked with relish. Sue later ordered grilled fish cooked in conjunction with a local herb called ‘zaatar’. Feeling rather full I sampled a little. Quite nice.

We got back to our one of the world’s best hotels rather late accompanied by other tourists staying there. We felt sorry to leave Aswan the next day.

Oslo: Great in Every Way

“Wow!” exclaimed Sue. We were staring at the summit of one of the best luxury hotels, Radisson SAS Oslo Plaza practically in the midst of the city. I knew that it had a nice bar all the way up to the top but desisted from going up. Firstly, it was too early in the day for a drink and secondly, it was too expensive. Thirdly, there were other places I wanted to visit. Places like Vigeland Park containing the works of one of the country’s greatest sculptors Gustav Vigeland.

Santo Domingo: The oldest in the new world

Even before plans regarding a trip to the capital of Dominican Republic got underway there was advice galore. Most friends and well-wishers told us that this was where we would be able to locate the ‘most ancient in a contemporary world’, including the oldest street, the oldest building – well, not exactly – the oldest chapel, and the oldest cathedral in the world. By the time we landed in Santo Domingo we were well-informed about the erratic traffic, fake jewel purveyors, etc.

God bless Sheena, our travel agent, who’d booked us at the Renaissance Jaragua Hotel, one of the best spa hotels and Casino with its jaw-dropping backdrop. Shaded by tall swaying palm trees it overlooks a lovely beach. The bilingual staff of the hotel is also most helpful and friendly.

Our first visit was to the Columbus Lighthouse or the Faro a Colon. The place is enormous and walking about tired us out quite a bit. One American tourist informed us that the view from the top of the light house is absolutely gorgeous. We could only take him for his word because we didn’t get to climb to the summit. We also learnt that Christopher Columbus lies buried here.

And how could we miss seeing the oldest cathedral in the Americas? The founding stone of this holy shrine was laid by Columbus’ son, Diego Columbus. Stepping inside the enormous vault one got a sense of a redoubtable colonial past. I was also reminded of the pirates who stormed the place in the 1500s to plunder all the precious artifacts and artworks and couldn’t help shivering. Some of the artworks they left behind cannot fail to impress, however.

All this made us hungry. Our watches said four pm local time, a little too early for tea and too late for lunch. Yet our stomachs were growling. So we got into our rented car and made our way to El Conusco, a favorite eating joint with tourists. I enjoyed the chicken salad and yams. Sue found the spaghetti really delicious. A must visit and highly recommended.

Melk: A day well spent

Looking down from the top floor of one of the best luxury hotels, Hotel Stadt in Melk we could see splayed out below a whirligig of red tiled roofs and whitewashed houses and buildings. Melk is a quiet town and ideal for vacations.

Sue and I had arrived in the morning from Vienna. After a meal and a rest at the hotel we made our way to the renowned Stift Melk, also called the Melk Abbey. Sue told me that this was one of the most famous monasteries of the world. I loved the drive up to the rocky outcrop close to the Wachau Valley in lower Austria. From the monastery one can see the rive Danube flowing by. The Cupola, the frescoed ceiling, the long corridor, and beautiful pieces d’art like ‘The Triumph of the Monk’ were nothing short of a visual treat.

While visiting the museum of Stift Melk we came upon the library, Grosse Bibliotek, with the most extraordinary collection of books. There are, for instance, close to 2000 manuscripts and some 1,700 books dating back to the sixteenth century. The ceiling here too, is beautifully frescoed.

Sue and I came out, quite overwhelmed, into the mellow Austrian sunshine. We had coffee and snacks inside the garden pavilion which again, happens to be a work of art. It is very baroque and just as beautiful. Never have I sipped coffee surrounded by so many artistic pieces.

Just as we were about to drive out of Stift Melk we spotted a bench and stand to the right of the foot of the stairs, practically hidden by the foliage. Behind the stand was this man, a farmer, selling candles and soaps along with cakes, wines and brandies. We bought some cakes and wine which we sampled at the hotel. Both were great. The next morning we had to drive back to Vienna and felt sad about leaving Melk.

Belek: A sunny paradise

“This is surely Nature’s lavishness at its best!” Sue had exclaimed on arriving in Belek which is in the Antalya region in Turkey. We had just got in from Paris by air- the journey had taken about three hours. Being driven into our one of the world’s best luxury hotels we noticed the sprawling golf courses with grass so green as to defy description. The soft mauve Mediterranean surrounding the town developed expressly for tourism purposes boasts a chain of well-maintained hotels that do not intrude upon the landscape. What is more, quite a few hotels have their own beach strips. We stayed at this place called Cornelia De Luxe with its plush accommodation and great seaside view.

In the evening we went down to the Troy Aqua Park, one of the largest water parks I have ever seen. Both Sue and I tried the rather dangerous kamikaze slide in which you have to hold your legs very tightly together otherwise your injuries will take a long time to heal.

We saw a number of tourists leaving for the Dolphinarium which is a part of the aqua park. We too lined up to buy tickets that cost us 25 euros each. We saw children under three years of age being admitted free of cost. The show lasted for about an hour. We saw walruses and dolphins; some even swam with them, for a payment of course.

That evening we were taken to the Adnana Kadriye restaurant by some well-meaning friends we had found at the aqua park. It was less expensive than what we’d expected and the food was great. I especially loved the grilled fish and tomato soup. Later we had Efes beer which too was great. As if this weren’t enough, the restaurant staff was friendly and warm and the view from there was simply superb.

One tip: Belek is a great place to shop for leather jackets, purses and things. The quality is great even if the price is somewhat steep.

Gibraltar: Stable as a rock

Thank goodness Sue has cousins living in Gibraltar who were willing to put up with us for a day. Well, here we were, in this last outpost of Europe and facing the huge rock Gibraltar is known for. The rocks are over two million years old, we were told. To our disappointment, we couldn’t manage to get a good view of it as the weather was slightly misty. We did see a lot of monkeys – barbery apes they are called, I believe – scampering about, though. Because Sue’s cousins, Mary and Edwina, had warned us against carrying bags because of the apes, we didn’t even take our cameras along. Instead, we stuffed our wallets in our jackets.

We had entered from the Spanish side on a double decker bus, thank goodness for that. Because those who got in with their cars were asked to fill out endless forms. The car queues are horrendously long and waiting can take a toll of your nerves and patience. Please be warned: a lot of conmen will try and sell you (fake) tickets at the border when all you need is a passport.

After the rock Sue suggested that we explore the St. Michaels Caves. “Caves!” I exclaimed in sheer disbelief, “You’ve got to be kidding.” But when I reached the caves, especially the Siege Tunnels, I couldn’t believe my eyes. The British blasted their way through natural tunnels and carefully crafted them to save Gibraltar’s denizens from continual Spanish attacks. The caves contain a storehouse for ammunition in a dynamite-blasted tunnel called St. Georges’ Hall. A great instance of engineering is all I can say.
We ended the day roaming around the main town square taking in its sights and sounds. We were lucky to be in time for an afternoon concert being performed by a uniformed band whose jaunty Spanish numbers we swung to while sipping coffee at an open restaurant.

That evening we took the bus out of Gibraltar with Mary and Edwina waving their goodbyes.

San Juan: A great place to be stranded in

Sue and I hit upon San Juan purely by accident. The thing is this: we were stranded at the Luis Marin Airport while on our way to so the authorities were kind enough to put us up at one of the best luxury resort spa, the San Juan Marriott Resort and Stellaris Casino. We had a thoroughly good time in the heart of the Caribbean in the midst of a large, picturesque beach. Sue wanted to jump into the swimming pool right away but then we hand no luggage save for our handbags. We had beer in the bar while a live band played some great Spanish numbers. Stepping out into the glorious sunshine we saw a city choc-a-bloc with fabulous Spanish architecture, malls, cafes, etc. This is also where European civilization anchored its beginnings, almost, after Santa Domingo.

Sue wanted to rent a car but was warned by the kindly hotel receptionist about the chaotic traffic and parking difficulties so we decided to hotfoot it to the old city contained within timeworn thick walls. We walked up to the La Plaza de las Palomas meaning ‘Plaza of the Doves’ and saw at least a million pigeons on the archway, the concrete with small kids screaming with delight while breaking off bread and feeding them. The old city is dotted with some breathtaking architecture, La Fortazela being one of them. Currently the Governor’s mansion it was a prison during colonial times. Walking around we were simply charmed by the old houses, old-style lamp posts and the streets. I, for one, did not wish to leave.

A quick lunch at a wayside café later we made our way towards Paseo de la Princesa, the world famous promenade close to the bay. We saw cruise ships docking in and pouring out their legions. The unruffled blue stretch of the ocean left us with a lot of inner peace.
Sue wanted to visit other San Juan landmarks like El Morro and the San Cristobal Fort but there was no time. We made our way back to the hotel tired and happy.

Asuncion: Beauty and the bustle

“Poof!” The interjection was a new one for Sue. But I was able to empathize being conjointly stewed in the clammy Paraguayan heat. We were roaming the streets of Asuncion in the height of summer wearing these ridiculously big hats that almost hid our faces but which also did a good job of shielding us from the fierce sun. “I wish it would rain,” said Sue. I reminded her that if it did we could get stuck as rainwater was known to fill up the potholes and sewages of the city, very often up to the level of 50 meters. And yet, despite the heat and discomfort we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves, taking in the shopping centers, buildings, and museums. That is the beauty of Asuncion, it manages to allure despite minor discomforts.

“Donde esta el correo?” asked Sue, who is an expert on languages. I knew she was asking for directions to the post office. In Paraguay you need to know at least rudimentary Spanish in order to get by. I hadn’t come across anybody who could speak English during our short stay in Asuncion.

The central post office, we noticed to our pleasure, is a sheer visual delight. An ancient building with pristine columns it commands a panoramic view of the city. What I loved most was watching the Paraguay River softly gushing by in a deliberate contrast to the bustling city.

Sue and I later frequented the busy Colon Street known for its touristy appeal. Here we saw Paraguayan women selling herbs by the bundles, especially to eager tourists. One of them even approached me and I, not being conversant with Spanish, beat a hasty retreat.
The next day we were in the Villa Morra district where Sue had to pick up a parcel for her godmother, a hearty Paraguayan lady, from her niece. Here we stopped by for some crayfish and other seafood dishes cooked in the typical Paraguayan style at a place called Fina Estampa. It went down great for two ravenous tourists.
I am already dreaming of a re-visit.

Warsaw: Unforgettable

It was cold at the Warsaw Frederic Chopin Airport the morning Sue and I landed at Wlochy, which happens to be 10 kilometers away from the city center. We were required to pass through a passport control station before entering security which took a longer time than anticipated, there being very few screening points.

Being driven to our one of the best spa hotels we saw rows of ghetto-like structures, all very functional and unpretty a relic of the city’s Soviet past, no doubt. We also saw some derelict milk bars, all harking back to the communist era.

After checking in at the hotel the first place we stopped by was at the Warsaw Monument to the Uprising. What we felt is truly indescribable. The statues dedicated to the war heroes trying to rescue their city from the clutches of the Nazis and the communists drove both Sue and me to tears.

One of the monuments was dedicated to a child soldier wearing boots and helmets a couple of sizes too big for him. Some 200,000 people were mowed down to death even as the Soviet army watched on. I felt a shudder creep up my spine.

We wandered around the Old Town in silence and pretty soon our spirits began to revive beholding the restored monuments. Some of the old turreted houses with rust-colored rooftops looked so cheerful as the sun rays set them alight that we couldn’t help feeling heartened. The entire ambience spoke volumes of the dauntless spirit of the city- I salute it with all my heart.

We walked around the Old Town Market Square taking in our fill of Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance building and churches. Through all my travels I rarely remember being this moved.

We also stopped by in front of the charming Zamoyski Palace built in a delightful French Renaissance style. The lovely faced and beautiful lawns made us – temporarily – forget the horrors of the war.
Warsaw is one place I will never forget.

Vitoria: Picturesque Basque bastion

Walking around Plaza de la Virgen Blanca, a stolid 17th century square Sue and I were taken by the lovely glazed balconies adorning some very old structures. People here speak avidly in a mix of Basque and Spanish. We had a Spaniard sitting next to us on the plane who told us, rather proudly, that it was this Basque capital that eventually threw Napoleon out of Spain in 1813. Sue and I stopped opposite the monument dedicated t the event.

The quality of life in Vitoria is unhurried and graceful. You will not get motor cars honking at you or driving you up the wall. If I am not mistaken, Vitoria was one of the first cities in the country to have gone pedestrian in a major way.

Sue, who is the reader between the two of us, had mentioned that this quiet Basque city was built on a hilly hamlet known as Gasteiz by the king of Navarre in 1181.
“You must visit the Archaeological Museum,” our Spanish companion had gushed. So off we went to explore it. It had a range of artifacts from prehistoric time right up to the Middle Ages.

Sue really loved the playing cards museum housed within the premises of a restored palace known as the Palacio de Bendana. The cards, contained in some 20,000 card decks, come from all eras and countries. We learnt about the culture, even eroticism of other countries.

Another favorite was the Plaza de Espana which houses the Parque de la Florida. Beautiful floral gardens with attractive layouts included copses and streams. I particularly enjoyed taking a stroll by myself on this tree-lined promenade next to the Basilica de Armentia. The surrounding mansions and parks make for a truly picturesque setting. I was met on the way by smiling couples, nannies wheeling their tiny wards on prams and so on.

There was so much more to explore but we had to catch the flight to Madrid the next morning. I plan to return soon someday.

Brisbane: Deceptively languid

The mild Queensland weather was sending us to sleep at the airport itself. Driving towards the Rydges Hotel one of the best spa hotels at Southbank Sue and I couldn’t help noting the gently curving slope of the Brisbane River. Everything about the town is laidback, from the people to the traffic. There is such an unhurried pace here that one feels relaxed automatically.

A quiet second cousin t the more bustling cities of Melbourne and Sydney Brisbane began to blossom during the 1982 Commonwealth Games.

From the windows of the Rydges we couldn’t help exclaiming at the beauty spread out before us. The landscape of Southbank, especially the riverside region, is extremely fetching to the eyes. It is difficult to believe that it once counted among the city’s ‘sleaze spots’ with run-down establishments, ugly warehouses, dubious pubs et al. Today it is the pride of Brisbane, one of its undeniable pearls.

The beach area too is fascinating (although artificial), with some great eating places. Sue’s favorite was this place called Beastie Burgers on Southbank’s Little Stanley Street whereas I loved the Turkish fare with its varied breads and sauces served at Ahmet’s Licensed Turkish Restaurant on Grey Street.

Southbank isn’t the only picturesque spot in Brisbane, Sue and I discovered. Sue had to meet one of her professors at the Queensland University of Technology which is right next to the Botanical Gardens. Leafy and green with some beautiful shaded spots, I was particularly entranced by the ducks, duck ponds, and the mangroves.

Another of my personal favorites was the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary where we saw these frightfully lazy koalas that seemed to be falling off their hubs atop eucalyptus trees. They also appeared somewhat resigned about submitting to hugs by excited tourists. I, on my part, preferred to leave the poor creatures alone.

Brisbane has a robust nightlife – so much for its laidback, small-town reputation – with a plethora of pubs and bars. Sue and I went to this rather cool place at the Queen Street Mall known as the Treasury Casino. We didn’t play, of course, but had our fill of martini and vodka.

Don’t be fooled by its outward demeanor; Brisbane has a lot of excitement to offer.

De Haan: Stepping back in time

Going around the De-Haan Centre I couldn’t help feeling I was back in the Hansel and Gretel epoch. At any given moment I expected witches and wizards to pop out of the stately Belle Époque villas and whiz past me precariously perched atop a broom or cloud. Sue, who was walking beside me said, “Where are the princes charming on their white steeds?” I knew she was thinking along the same lines as me.

We had arrived the evening before and here we were in this seaside town soaking up its picturesque beauty and elegance. Our hotel concierge had told us we were lucky to have such fine weather. “Last night had been horrible, rains and more rains!” she had rolled her eyes dramatically.

“Oh look!” Sue was pointing in the direction of a spotless white residential building with a russet turreted top. A passerby told us that it was actually a residential building belonging to an Englishman which had been converted to a hotel. “Tourists, mainly from the UK, feel at home here,” she gushed.

Walking intone of the worlds best hotels Beaufort for a late breakfast we were, once again, charmed by the sight that greeted us. Resembling a wedding cake from a distance it has a lovely terrace from which one can view the city. Sue and I had these steaming pancakes fresh from the pan with tea and scones. Sue later had beer which I refrained from taking, it being too early in the day.
The concierge had told us about this old tram station practically next to the Beaufort restaurant. It was such a dear little place replete with Art Nouveau style deco and very British. I felt I had stepped back an era; a more charming one than what I was living in.

If I loved the buildings of De Haan Sue the seaside. The town has one of the most fabulous beaches I have seen with white stretches of sandy white.

Taking the plane out to Brussels that evening we couldn’t help feeling we had left an age, an era behind.