Thursday, June 11, 2009

Asuncion: Beauty and the bustle




“Poof!” The interjection was a new one for Sue. But I was able to empathize being conjointly stewed in the clammy Paraguayan heat. We were roaming the streets of Asuncion in the height of summer wearing these ridiculously big hats that almost hid our faces but which also did a good job of shielding us from the fierce sun. “I wish it would rain,” said Sue. I reminded her that if it did we could get stuck as rainwater was known to fill up the potholes and sewages of the city, very often up to the level of 50 meters. And yet, despite the heat and discomfort we were thoroughly enjoying ourselves, taking in the shopping centers, buildings, and museums. That is the beauty of Asuncion, it manages to allure despite minor discomforts.

“Donde esta el correo?” asked Sue, who is an expert on languages. I knew she was asking for directions to the post office. In Paraguay you need to know at least rudimentary Spanish in order to get by. I hadn’t come across anybody who could speak English during our short stay in Asuncion.

The central post office, we noticed to our pleasure, is a sheer visual delight. An ancient building with pristine columns it commands a panoramic view of the city. What I loved most was watching the Paraguay River softly gushing by in a deliberate contrast to the bustling city.

Sue and I later frequented the busy Colon Street known for its touristy appeal. Here we saw Paraguayan women selling herbs by the bundles, especially to eager tourists. One of them even approached me and I, not being conversant with Spanish, beat a hasty retreat.
The next day we were in the Villa Morra district where Sue had to pick up a parcel for her godmother, a hearty Paraguayan lady, from her niece. Here we stopped by for some crayfish and other seafood dishes cooked in the typical Paraguayan style at a place called Fina Estampa. It went down great for two ravenous tourists.
I am already dreaming of a re-visit.

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